Ghost Hunting

Since returning from Brittany, life seems to have taken a slightly hectic turn, but needless to say I haven’t let that get in the way of enjoying my bikes on a series of nice little rides!

Most of the UK has been blessed with an early autumn of stunningly beautiful weather and our little corner has been well within the sunshine zone, so it was only right to give both bikes a breath of fresh air. First up a quick blast across Bodmin Moor on Harls! As always it was great to be on two wheels, even better on a bike that I absolutely adore riding. It’s funny, but since I bought the new Ultra Limited I somehow appreciate my old Harls even more than ever. Her staccato exhaust, open riding position and laid-back style may not be to everyone’s taste, but I love her! Sure she’s not as hi-tech as her new stable mate, could do with another top gear and better brakes, but she has character and personality in abundance. They can bury me sitting on that bike! P1040943

One morning recently I had to do some business in Bodmin, one of our local towns, and after that was concluded the whole day was begging not to be wasted. With a mind to getting out on the open road I took “Baby Harls,” my Ultra Limited and had one of those lovely moments as I pondered, “Now, where shall we go?”

The sky looked a deeper shade of blue towards the East, so we hit the A38 trunk road and headed across the River Tamar.

Now at this point I must confess that the two main trunk roads out of Cornwall, the A30 and A38, are best described as “tedious.” Sure, they get you to where you want to go reasonably quickly and actually both cover some pretty scenery, but that’s it. They can both get snarled up with traffic at times and also seem to attract more than their fair share of really bad drivers, but no I’m not about to launch into a Dookes rant, so lets just leave it there!

After cruising about sixty miles we turned off the ’38 and passed through the old market town and tidal port of Totnes. Feeling a “heritage” moment coming on, I followed the signs towards the small village of Berry Pomeroy and it’s romantic, though magnificently ruined castle.

Once a medieval castle and later a sumptuous Elizabethan mansion, Berry was the home of the Seymour and Pomeroy families. The remains lie in a beautiful woodland setting and have the reputation of being one of the most haunted castles in England; I just had to go see for myself!

What I found I pretty much fell in love with straight away.

The Gatehouse.

The Gatehouse.

The original castle dates from the 1400’s, but by 1560 the owning Seymour family began a re-construction odyssey that was to last nearly 100 years and would never be completed. Sadly, much of the finest building work was dismantled in the Eighteenth Century, but plenty remains to show just how grand the place must have been in it’s heyday.

The Elizabethan House

The Elizabethan House

Today the castle is in the custodianship of English Heritage and open to the public, but still belongs to the descendants of the original owners. To find out more about it you can follow the link here.

I think I’ll let the pictures do the talking.

The East Range 1600-10.

The East Range 1600-10.

Inside the Elizabethan Ruins.

Inside the Elizabethan Ruins.

The Elizabethan House From The Great Hall.

The Elizabethan House From The Great Hall.

The Curtain Wall and St Margaret's Tower.

The Curtain Wall and St Margaret’s Tower.

Leaving Berry Pomeroy and not having spotted any ghosts, we headed North to Ashburton and set off across Dartmoor, this was turning into a very self-indulgent day!

The road across the moor initially starts by back tracking the River Dart through its narrow valley and deep woodland. This road was one of the first that I rode my new “Baby” on earlier in the year and brought back many happy memories.

Early Spring on the River Dart.

Early Spring on the River Dart.

It was early spring then and now the seasons have moved on, autumn is getting well into her lovely stride. The woods held the unmistakable smell of resinous falling leaves, something that to me embodies this time of year. On the high moor the summer bracken has tuned the same red as the wild native ponies and grass is beginning to take on a slightly yellow hue as it’s feed value diminishes.P1040994 There are hard cold days ahead and this country can be very hard indeed, though at the same time stunningly beautiful.P1050001

It makes you appreciate how good it is to be alive and enjoying it!P1040999

“It ain’t no sin to be glad you’re alive.”

Catch you soon.

Dookes

A House Call

As I’ve reported previously, my Welsh mate G is currently undergoing chemotherapy in his fight against leukaemia. Just lately he’s been in and out of hospital quite a lot with a series of blood transfusions and tests.

Being the optimistic little sod that he is, this is not such a bad thing; you see the Rugby World Cup is currently underway and as England are the hosts, all of the games are being screened on television. So a spell in hospital = an opportunity to watch rugby, great!

But, it ain’t all that great.

The whole cancer thing is shit; if you excuse me being so basal.

G was at home the other day, his family were going out and rugby was going to be on the television. Hey, a friend has got to do what friends do best; I bought the sausages and Greg cooked lunch! Well Ok, I did have a super 50 mile ride over to his place too! I took Harls, I needed her rawness, simplicity and noise.
P1050015
The ride was lovely; it was one of those mornings when the diffused sunlight gives the world an ethereal feel, all cosy and comforting, if a tad on the cool side with the first chill of autumn.

Greg lives in Devon, the neighbouring county to Cornwall where Dookes H.Q. is based. It’s one of the wonderful things about geography, the two counties are separated by one river, the Tamar, but in many ways couldn’t be more different. Cornwall reflects its hard rock granite foundations and tends to be a bit craggy and sharp; whilst Devon mostly sits on softer Old Red Sandstone making for a more rolling landscape that is very easy on the eye. P1050009

We had a great afternoon together. He may be unwell, but his cooking is as good as ever. We laughed a lot, the rugby was entertaining, we watched videos of motorcycle road trips and did loads of planning for future trips when Greg is well again. It’s looking like most of Europe and Scandinavia won’t be safe once we get going!

Riding home I had time to reflect on the true value of friendship. To me it’s not like family, with real friends its much deeper than that. I’ve had too many family members really hurt me over the years, but my friends never have. Sure we’ve pissed each other off on occasions, but with true friends you can tell each other why and how, then move on. Greg and I have shared many experiences over the years and I aim to share many more with him in future.

The rumble of Harl’s exhaust as we rode home into the setting evening sun was comforting. Yes, perhaps I was going a tad fast at times, but I felt vibrantly alive. This compulsory getting older thing is a bit of a bummer; growing up is, in my book, still optional!

“Summers going fast, 
nights growing colder. 

Children growing up
, old friends growing older.


Freeze this moment a little bit longer
, make each sensation a little bit stronger.”

Catch you soon.

Dookes

Friends; In Need, Indeed.

Its been a strange few months in the world of Dookes.

First up and with the support of Mrs Dookes I decided to jack in the rat race, calm down and retire early. It’s big tick in the box for that one, but I’ll be honest it’s still taking a bit of getting used to! So much so that I’ve found something to keep me out of mischief for a few days a week . . . more details of that in a future post though! Yeah, I’m a tease.

Then, just as I was getting used to life changes I got the news about my mate G, or Greg as you all now know him.

I’ll be honest, the situation that G has found himself in has hit me sideways and in a way that I would never have thought possible. I really get what he wrote about dealing with the realisation of a cancer diagnosis, in his words; “Or one of my friends…

I can handle it, it’s me…. A strange one but as it’s me it makes it bearable.”

He had his first dose of Chemotherapy on Wednesday and late in the afternoon I received a text message from him to let me know how he’d got on. We played message ping-pong for a few minutes each response getting a bit sillier! At the time I was sitting on a cliff high above the Atlantic rollers on the North Cornwall coast. G’s ever optimistic messages both heartened me and humbled me at the same time. Looking West, the approaching sunset and majestic clouds lifted my spirits as I worried for my friend and at the same time felt so utterly helpless.P1040839

The evening before I had enjoyed a wonderful ride with an other dear friend, Vifferman. In fact, as regular blogonaughts may recall, Viff is my oldest friend we go back over 50 years.

Viff understood that I needed a bit of support and a good thrash on two wheels followed by fish and chips by the sea in Bude was an excellent antidote for the “feeling hopelessly useless” blues! Thanks Viff.P1040811OK, its a Honda, buts it’s Vifferman’s Honda!

Anyway, the point is that as usual Vifferman gets it and this time he could see that I was a bit “Wobbly.” It’s probably a culmination of lots of things that has made this a pretty emotional summer, but the main thing is how the friends network is working and supporting each other, which is just great.

No really surprising that it all largely revolves around two wheels either!

“At night we ride through mansions of glory in suicide machines.”

Catch you all soon,

Dookes

PS Special thanks to Mrs Dookes, Alba, Curtis, Bones, Ginamarie, John and many others for being there too, you all mean the world to me!

Return to Italy

This retirement game is pretty OK, particularly with such a fantastic summer of sport going on all around.

First there was the splendour and power of Le Tour de France, then the cricket test matches between England and Australia have enthralled and are now being followed by the first warm up games for the rapidly approaching Rugby Union World Cup. If only the weather in the UK was quite as predictable!

Time to slip back to Italy for a top up of coffee, fine wine and sunshine!

It’s true to say that I have fallen hopelessly in love with everything I have seen so far in Italy. The country is a place where passion is worn on one’s sleeve and wow, do the Italians get passionate about things! On top of which, everyone I have met have been friendly, happy and super welcoming. Note to self; learn to speak the language better this winter!

Drifting back to the hills of Piedmont, in the North West of Italy, on a Harley Davidson is no hardship at all! The name Piedmont apparently comes from latin, meaning “at the foot of the mountains,” though if you speak French it is also easy to see the link and as the area is bounded on three sides by the Alps it’s also pretty obvious too!

Piedmont is an important industrial region, it is home to FIAT the automobile manufacturer, but for me more importantly is one of the greatest wine-producing regions in Italy. Here they do not make “old rot gut” stuff, oh no, this is the home of top end prestigious wines such as Barbaresco, Moscato d’Asti and most revered of all, Barolo. P1040478

Situated about 30 miles southeast of Turin, yet light years away in time, lies the small town of Barolo, population 750, which gives it’s name to this most majestic of wines. On my last trip I slightly slipped up, I didn’t buy enough, so hence my return!DSCF3864

We rolled into the compact town square just after midday. The town was quiet, actually it was more than that, it was dead. The hot air was still and the scorching sun reflected back off the terracotta roof tiles making the sky above shimmer. It’s an unassuming little place, really only attractive from a distance when the red tiles stand out against the verdant vineyards that run right up to the edge of town. From a small bar came muffled voices and the alluring scent of strong Italian coffee.
P1040477
Baby Harley’s engine ticked as she cooled gently in the heat of the narrow streets. A large truck with French registration plates rumbled past, stirring dusty clouds up off the parched road.

I walked through the open door into the shady interior of the bar and ordered a double espresso and lunch. The sunlight penetrated in shards of light that captured a million dust particles hanging like shimmering diamonds in the still air. I settled in a corner chair, rubbed my eyes and realised how much the ride had taken out of me. The lady working behind the bar smiled and delivered my coffee accompanied with a carafe of water and a glass; the Italians know much about coffee and the obligatory water was certainly welcome.

My ears were singing a high-pitched wail as a dumped my riding jacket on the tiled floor. Riding motorbikes plays hell with my tinnitus, even with ear protection and a quiet helmet; it’s the legacy of years working with noisy railway locomotives!

I sipped the strong, excellent coffee and pondered the sanity of riding to Barolo just for some wine. Yep, definitely a good idea!

La Signora reappeared and placed a plate of heaven on the table in front of me. Filetto Baciato, made from pork fillet marinated in white wine then coated with a paste made from salami and packed into a sausage casing to age for six months, wood roasted artichoke hearts and fresh asparagus spears, a small jug of olive oil, some crisp bitter salad leaves and of course Grissini, the Turin breadstick now common all over Italy. Piedmont is rightly famous for it’s simple cuisine, at its gamey best in the autumn, but hey this is summer so go with what’s available, I’m not complaining! I contemplated a cold beer, but no, I’m riding, so stick to water.

The other patrons of the bar are seemingly locals, it’s not the sort of establishment that really attracts tourists and that suits me fine. There are probably about a dozen other people as well as me, cutlery chinks against plain solid crockery as we all eat, enjoy our lunches and for those with companions, talk. My Italian language skill is not great, but I catch snatches of conversation and smile at the animated way that views are exchanged, deals made and the food discussed, yes this food deserves to be discussed it’s simple and very good.

You know, just about everywhere I go it’s always about the food and sadly mine is now finished.

I catch La Signora’s eye and order another coffee. Well, why not, I don’t intend to sleep for hours yet! She returns with a fresh cup and offers a bottle of grappa. It’s another Italian tradition that I love, whereby the spirit is supposed to take the edge off the caffeine or the caffeine off the alcohol, I get the logic, but either way I politely decline!

Coffee gone, I settle up and step outside back into the furnace of this scorching summer. It’s nearly two in the afternoon and the glass is reading 34 degrees Celsius. Time to hunt down this small town’s most famous product and ride on!P1040712
Guess that’s mission accomplished!

“I love wine, women an’ song.”

Catch you soon.

Dookes

Provence, Hot and High.

Lunch alongside Lac de Castillon was great, a gentle breeze wafted off the stunning water which made things a tad more bearable as the sun beat down. The lake was formed by damming the River Verdon and although it does produce hydroelectric power it’s main function is to provide irrigation to this amazing region. Not surprisingly it is also very popular as a leisure destination as well.P1040568The French Navy have a presence on the lake as well, where they do “Interesting Stuff.” Apparently they carry out research into underwater sound transmission and detection, the small structure in the middle of the lake is something to do with this, but they don’t like you getting to close with cameras and there are signs warning people to keep away, so I had to grab a shot anyway!
We headed South, through the pleasant town of Castellane and continued to follow the River Verdon. A few kilometres past the town things start to get very interesting. First the land seems to swell up in front, then the river valley gets narrower as the sides close in. We took a left and followed a side valley and lovely twisty roads to the ancient village of Trigance at nearly 3000feet above sea level.

Trigance

Trigance

The dry dusty road continued to climb, amazingly there were signs warning that snow chains were compulsory between November and March! It’s hard to imagine the contrast to the high 30’s Celsius that we were experiencing, such a land of extremes.
Then, as we swung round a tight corner, bam! We looked down into one of Europe’s finest, deepest, widest canyons. This is the famous Canyon du Verdon.P1040582The Canyon, cut by the river through limestone country, is about 25 kilometres long, around 700 metres deep and just over 1500metres wide. OK, so yes it’s not as big as that one cut by the Colorado River, but hey, you gotta make the best of what you’ve got and its pretty darn impressively beautiful!P1040590
At the end of the canyon the river flows into the beguiling Lac de Sainte-Croix, another man-made reservoir that provides drinking water for much of Provence and contributes greatly to the hydro-electric production of France. The lake is noted for it’s ever-changing colours and being the largest man-made lake in France. The view from Aiguines was wonderful, with my old friend Mont Ventoux, The Beast of Provence, shimmering in the hazy distance to the right.P1040594It seems like a lifetime ago that Harls and I rode up and over that one, I can’t believe that it was only a year ago, you can revisit that adventure here.

It was with mixed feelings that I tore myself away from the Canyon, I still had quite a ride ahead to the overnight stop in Aigues Mortes and whilst the Autoroute had little aesthetic appeal it certainly had moving air, high-speed moving air at that! As Baby and I purred along the A8 to the Camargue I pondered this amazing region of Provence, rich in history, geography and of course food; I’ve been there frequently, but have only scratched the surface so far . . I feel a return trip may be required for more investigation! So in the words of a song:

“Catch your dreams before they slip away.”

And I’ll catch you all soon.

Dookes

Großglockner High Alpine Road Part One

Ok, let’s try again and by now you will have done your research and know all about the road!

It’s certainly not the highest road that I’ve ever ridden, but definitely one of the nicest, if only because of the wonderful road surface; those hefty tolls are obviously put to good use! 

 

Nice sweeping bends, just right to get the rhythm going! 

 

Then we got up into the snow, but the road was nice and clear.  

  

The highest point on the main road is Edelweisßspitz, that someone with a sense of humour calls the “BikerPoint!” 

 

That’s all fair and dandy, but to get there you have to ride a narrow hairpin infested track surfaced, with . . . Cobble Stones! 

 

Some sense of humour, especially as the melting snow puts a nice layer of water across those polished stone right on the tightest hairpins!

More later, the sun has come up and it’s gonna be a nice day, so better go ride it. Lets see what Italy has in store for us today!

Dookes

Clouds and Rain

Good evening from the Austrian Tyrol!

Today has been the sort that I can do without, but when you are off on a road trip you just have to accept what the weather clerk throws at you! It’s not often that I get out the rain suit, but today it’s been on almost all day, yeck!

I’m beginning to think that I need to avoid Switzerland, every time I go there it rains! It only took me a shade under two hours to ride from one end of the country to the other but apart from the last couple of miles it was awful! I crossed the River Rhine twice again today, once going in and later going out of Swiss territory. It was a lot smaller when we crossed the second time and passed into the tiny state of Lichtenstein.

  

It only took about fifteen minutes to cross Lichtenstein, and that included a stop at a petrol station too!

Once in Austria, I had hoped to go via the Silvretta Mountain road, but the weather was so bad I aborted that plan and went via the Arlberg Pass and that wasn’t much fun either! At 5883 feet elevation, that’s 1793 metres, it’s not the highest pass around, but sleety rain at the summit and a road surface like glass made for a less than pleasant experience. We rejoined the Autobahn following it East though the Tyrol, passing Innsbruck and by the time we arrived in Jenbach our night stop things were looking much better. Four countries in one day, that’s a bit crazy!

Things were brightening up, so we popped up to see the Achensee, the largest lake in the Tyrol. 

 

Oh yes, us bikers. . . What “No Parking” sign? 

 

Just time to grab a panorama shot on the way to the hotel which is in the village in this photo. 

 

 You know, it wasn’t such a bad day after all!

“I will choose a path that’s clear, I will choose freewill.”

Catch you later.

Dookes

Crossing The Rhine

After a thoroughly enjoyable five hours, yes honestly, in the railway museum we pulled out of Mulhouse and headed for Germany. Not such a big deal really, it’s only seven miles down the road and suddenly we were crossing the mighty River Rhine and the border. We certainly are crossing off the big rivers of Europe on this trip!

The plan was to head up into the mountains of the Black Forest, which frankly looked a bit forbidding and covered in cloud. As we took our planned route and began the climb we rounded a corner and that was it, the road was closed. . . No advance warning either, Straße Gesperrt! Oh yeah and no diversion route suggested as well, thanks Germany! A quick consult of the map showed two options, the Northern one would put at least sixty miles on our route and the Southern one would be a lot shorter, but probably a bit tedious on the Autobahn. South it was then, with strains of Kraftwerk passing through my mind! Thirty miles of Autobahn was enough for me, even though it had a 120kph limit, no one was sticking to it; no that’s wrong actually everyone was behaving except for anyone driving a Swiss car and they were everywhere, very fast, very close and very dangerous!

I decided to bale out onto ordinary roads and just for fun crossed the Rhine again, but this time into Switzerland; three countries in less than two hours, bonkers! Now here was a strange thing, in their own country all Swiss registered cars all stick to the speed limits, drive with plenty of distance and generally behave, strange! 

At Koblenz we crossed back into Germany and found our hotel in the old town part of Waldshut-Tiengen, a pleasant sort of place with a nice up-market feel and traditional buildings adding character. The Main Street is pedestrianised and makes for an agreeable stroll.  

 

The view from the hotel window. 

 

 Oh yes I’d better show you a picture of the Rhine as well! The chap on reception at the hotel said that it’s not so much of a river, it’s more about what defines people of these parts; I rather like that! 

 

101 miles today.

” Wir fahr’n fahr’n fahr’n auf der Autobahn.”

Bis später!

Dookes

Across the Rivers and Plains

After my splendid petit déjeuner Baby Harls and I hit the road around nine thirty. The day was warming up nicely, this was going to be a bit of a hot one, in more ways than one!

We had a tad of nonsense getting round Bourges, I think someone in the local highway department had a sense of humour when the town’s bypass was named “Rocade Jacques Bastard,” it certainly is a bit of one!  Anyway, we slotted onto the N151 with a bit of trepidation, you see I’d been along this road before in a car with Mrs Dookes and it wasn’t the greatest trip. Today though, was so different. Light traffic, ok there was almost none and lovely sunshine.

The road is pretty straight, the Romans were here a few thousand years ago, so we sang our Twin Cylinder song and purred East across the Cher Plain, this is the bread basket of France, wheat, barley and rape fields fill the land. I couldn’t resist trying to grab a “Big Sky” shot like Dhama Anchor  http://dharmaanchor.com does so well around Route 66.  

 I think that worked pretty well!

Dropping gently into the Loire valley and crossing the mighty river at La Charité we negotiated the narrow streets through historic buildings that even predate me! From Charité the road turns slightly North East and heads into Burgundy/Bourgogn, it’s still Roman so still pretty straight. Bourgogne is lovely, especially the Morvan part of which we passed through.

Clemency was were we crossed the River Yonne and shortly after the road became delightfully twisty winding through the Maulay Forest to the magical  hill top town of Vézelay. The town and the famous 11th century Romanesque Basilica of St Magdelene are designated UNESCO World Heritage sites, Mrs D and I visited in October a few years back and it was delightful; rather more tourists around today though! 

 It looked great across the fields.

From Avallon it was back on the Autoroutes I’m afraid! The first one was the worse, the A6, the infamous Route du Soliel. The motorway is the favourite of Parisienne holidaymakers as it is the main link to the South of France and the French Riviera. Notorious for traffic jams and accidents in the high holiday season, it’s reputation is well deserved and you certainly need to keep your wits about you! Once on the A36 we crossed the Saône and the traffic quietened down nicely, this is a super Autoroute with interesting bends and nice changes in gradient, enough to keep it interesting. 

. . . and so into Mulhouse, our stop for tonight. Not as plush as yesterday, but chosen for a reason and more of that tomorrow!

Catch you later and in the meantime, 

 “Don’t let the sound of your own wheels drive you crazy.”

Dookes

Petit Dejuner

I told you that this Chambres d’Hôte did great breakfasts. 

The spread for this morning comprises of;

Orange juice, real coffee, croissantes, bread, crêpes, yogurt, a sweet apple flan, melon, cheese, ham, six different confitures and two different types of honey. No wonder that I keep coming back! For info you can find the details on: http://www.chambredhotedelajunchere.com. If you are passing this way I can definitely recommend!

Madame makes all the confitures herself; my favourite is the Fig with Nuts, which last time I was here she told me how to make it, I sorry to report that as yet I haven’t tried.

I slept like a log and was woke by the delightful sounds of a cuckoo and donkey competing to greet the dawn.

It looks like a beautiful day, certainly the view from my bedroom is looking good. 

 

Now if you’ll excuse me, je vais manger!

Dookes