Hot Stuff!

Phew, what scorcher today has been!

Harley and I got away from Tudela at 09:30 and promptly found heavy traffic for nearly twenty miles until we got onto the Autopista, then we virtually had the road to ourselves! The sun was pretty unforgiving, even at that time of the morning and the temperature was already well into the mid twenties Celsius. The landscape remained quite parched, though nowhere near as arid as our desert exploits saw last evening. We skirted Zarragoza, a large mess in Ebro valley. I know it has nice parts, but the industrial sprawl that has surrounded the old city kinda spoils it for me. The regional names around those parts always seem quite romantic to me; Navarra, Aragon (where Catherine, Henry VIII’s first wife came from) and then Catalonia. The Autopista is a toll road, not cheap, but sure gets you there quicker than the National Routes. I grabbed this quick shot at a toll booth to show the typical scenery that went on for miles and miles!

20140617-202144-73304289.jpg
We cruised into Llieda, for fuel and a visit to the Harley Davidson Dealership where we were made very welcome….all of the staff were ladies. Excellente! The cathedral citadel towers above the old town.

20140617-202537-73537240.jpgWhilst the city park looked cool and inviting through the imposing gates.

20140617-202859-73739227.jpg
One of the many things I love about my Harley is the way she enables me to engage with complete strangers. By the park gates was just such an example, a group of teenagers gathered around admiring her and I soon realised by their use of signing that they were deaf. One of the lads indicated to me to blip the throttle and when I duly obliged, great merriment ensued, the lad indicated to me that they could feel the vibrations in their stomachs! Try sitting on her for 200+ miles pal, you’ll know what vibration is then! Well actually no, she doesn’t vibrate much at all really, but I digress. Others rushed to the back of Harley to put their hands in the exhaust as it exploded from the pipes, never have I seen such happiness gained from feeling the air vibrate in such a way! After a few minutes of such goofing about, I had to say farewell to our new friends and hit the road. We turned the corner out of sight and stopped, so I could wipe a tear away. That bloody motorbike frequently has a way of putting life into perspective for me and reminding me of how lucky I am for so many things! It’s just one of the reasons that I love her so much, got tears in my eyes again thinking about that moment…
After Llieda, we turned north and started the slow climb to the Pyrenees. I was looking forward to getting some altitude and hopefully cooler air. The land soon began to grow towards the sky and the valleys narrowed as we found harder geology.
Halfway it was time for lunch, fresh apricots and peaches from a roadside stall. Why can’t we have stuff like this in the UK…? Oh yes, cos it’s too bleeding cold and wet! Nice view though.

20140617-210517-75917363.jpg
After a bit more climbing we arrived in the Principality of Andorra and clocked up another country that Harley has graced, that’s six so far! Naturally we just had to visit the H-D dealership, which is not only one of the newest in Europe but probably the most exclusive…until one opens in Monaco!
Now this place, Andorra, is something else…
It’s a bit of an anachronism, the place that the Moors never got around to grabbing when they took over Spain and subsequently no-one else has bothered with! It’s supposed to be a tax haven and also cos it’s tax free a shoppers paradise…well not exactly! Looking at the dealer tee shirt that I bought in Llieda it was €25 before tax, but here in Andorra the same shirt was €27, that’s two bucks more expensive in real terms!!!!! Get this too, Andorra ain’t even in the EU, let alone the Euro zone, but hey any cash will do! The drivers gain my “Most bonkers in Europe” award, the blanket speed limit is 50kph, but now and again there is a 200metre stretch of 60kph, just watch ’em go! That’s when the driver of a Porsche 4WD found out a Harley goes faster, just had to be done! Bizarrely, the fastest stretch of road in Andorra is in the Twin Valleys Tunnel at 80kph, I dunno why either…! Gotta say that I’m not over struck with Andorra, a mate says it’s good for skiing but apart from the highest capital city in Europe I don’t think it’s got that much to offer, give me the Alps any day!
The view out of my room.

20140617-214842-78522668.jpg

Catch ya later!

“Riding down the highway, stoppin’ in the byways, playin’ rock and roll.”

Dookes

In memory of Piran, an old git, but a true friend!
Yesterday don’t matter when it’s gone.

An Apology!

Hello people.

I am having real trouble posting to the blog. Last night I thought it was the internet speed on board the ship….tonight I’m not so sure. The folks at WordPress have made some “improvements” to the App and site, so good that loads of my writing has just disappeared and photos won’t load!

I am very sorry if you are disappointed by this, but it ain’t half as much as I am!

I will endeavour to persevere!

Dookes

Desert Exploration

imageimageimageimageimageYes, honestly, a real desert…

Right, cards on the table. This trip does not have a theme like many of my other adventures. Well OK, it is about the pure unbridled pleasure of riding my beloved Harley, but we are not chasing fictional spies or following in the historical footsteps of anyone. The trip doesn’t even have a name, though I am open to suggestions! There are, however, one to two places that we are going that I have long had on the old Dookes radar. Tonight the destination was the Bardenas Reales Natural Park.

This is an extensive semi-desert unpopulated area of nearly 42,000 hectares in the South East of Navarra. It has a unique landscape with high cabezos cliffs, raised plateaus, hidden ravines and eroded land forms matched by few places on earth. There are three main areas but tonight we only had time to head for the most spectacular, La Bardena Blanca.

The landscape is jaw dropping amazing. It’s evolution began about 20 million years ago when the depression was marsh and inland sea. Geological changes then caused the land to drain to the north and further shifting of the rocks brought about a tilt that reversed the flow of the Rio Ebro to drain into the Mediterranean. The alluvial deposits became soft mudstones with sandstones capping them. Over time, weathering has attacked the landscape wearing the mudstones and silts away quicker than the sandstone and leaving behind a spectacular and changing scenery. The area receives minimal rainfall and is officially Europes largest desert.

The rock formations are amazing, best of all is Cabezo de Castildetierra which is a fragile finger pointing skywards and literally in the middle of nowhere! Access to the park is via gravel tracks, which certainly  puts off many visitors and I must admit that under normal circumstances I would not have dreamed of taking Harley off Tarmac, but you don’t get to drive in a desert everyday! So….off we went, slowly, very slowly!  You can see from the pictures that Harley certainly got the dust in her toes and by the time we got back on real roads certainly looked a tad weathered! The whole place has a touch so Area 51 about it, engendered by the presence of a large military zone complete with barbed wire sentry towers and signs basically telling you to go away….I didn’t see any UFO’s though!

Sorry that the photos are in one block, but at least I got them posted! If the photos remind you of anything, well, think Spagetti Western and you’ll be spot on as many of them were filmed around these parts. As Clint once said “With the Rojos on one side and the Baxters on the other, a man could make money here…..”

“On a dark desert highway, cool wind in my hair”

Catch you all later, off to the High Sierras, in cowboy speak, next!

Dookes

 

Hola Espania!


Well, my wish for no rain in Spain was granted! Lovely warm weather saw us into Santander just after midday. The beaches were golden whilst the hills beyond looked brooding with high cloud. Unfortunately Harley and I with over a hundred other motorbikes were stuck on the lower vehicle deck for over forty five minutes whilst all of the other vehicles were disembarked! It was like a sauna, only with motorbikes in there with you as well, not pleasant!

Once we were released, the Spanish authorities could not have assisted more and we all flew through passport control and customs without any further hold up. Harley and I hit the Cantabrian Autopista and sped eastwards. Traffic was ok, a little busy round Bilbao but soon thin to almost nothing on the AP68 as we headed towards the red soils of Rioja and the Ebro valley. The Region of Rioja is rightly famous for its splendid red wines, made largely from the tempranillo grape and acres of vines can be seen stretching away for miles. Now I have seen quite a few wine producing areas around the place, but Rioja takes the prize for the sheer scale of the cultivation. The vines are small, but boy are there a lot of them!

20140616-222032-80432433.jpg

The road was quite simply fantastic, lots of European cash has been invested in the Spanish transport network and the roads have got to be amongst the best anywhere, a real joy to ride.

“I’m just glad to be here, happy to be alive.”

Dookes

20140616-222812-80892244.jpg

 

ii

All At Sea

It’s a beautiful morning in the Bay of Biscay!

We are about three hours steaming from our destination, Santander, and the weather could not be nicer. Super dinner last night and then a good sleep over a near glass smooth sea. Hope Harley is OK down on the lower vehicle deck!

After we disembark we will head South East about 200 miles to Tudela, in Navarra, which is situated on the banks of the mighty Rio Ebro the longest river in Spain. Hopefully the weather will stay with us, cos it would be the first time that I have ever arrived in Spain without rain falling!

Broadband speeds on board are a bit slow so please excuse the lack of photos!

20140616-083131-30691910.jpg
…and then blow me it worked!

I’m off to enjoy breakfast!

Dookes

TT Tragedies

Yesterday I mentioned the famous Isle of Man TT races in my Blog post. These classic and historic races are run on closed public roads around the island, giving a circuit lap length of just over 37 miles. Average lap speeds usually exceed 125 mph, most races are three laps long and are run as road time trials. Generally there are no crash barriers, save for a few strategically placed straw bales, the drystone walls and banks lining the roads are particularly unforgiving to mistakes. The island is a magnet for racers and spectators each June when the world famous event is staged. Over the years the course has claimed the lives of many aspiring and established racers

Shortly after publishing I found out the sad news that Bob Price had died in an accident during Monday’s Supersport race.

Today the motorcycling world is again stunned as another star talent, Karl Harris, was killed in a high speed crash on the Isle of Man during the Superstock race.

My thoughts and those of the motorcycling community go out to their families. That they both died doing what they loved seems hollow consolation. Those of us that choose to ride motorcycles all know the risks, it is an inherently dangerous pastime but we measure that against the enjoyment riding gives us and the feeling of freedom we get out on the road. Nonetheless tragedies do occur, two bikers also died in North Wales on a pleasure ride only last weekend.

Bob and Karl, may you ride free, maybe one day we will all ride out together again.

Dookes

20140603-222852-80932344.jpg

I Wanna Live The way I Like!

This is really bad, it’s nearly a month since my last post on the Blog!

I am really sorry to all you good people for being so tardy at keeping in touch, lets just say that life sometimes gets in the way of a good ride….but not often!

Harley and I are well and getting ourselves organised for our next road trip and as you can guess we need a fair bit of practice out on the road together, it makes sense really! Last Saturday the sun came out just after lunch and it would have been remiss not to take advantage and do some head clearing! We headed West to begin, as I have said before I just love riding across Bodmin Moor, especially when the sun is out! Harley and I then hung a sharp left and swung towards the South East corner of Cornwall. Traffic was reasonable for the last weekend of school half term. We ended up at St Germans Quay on the estuary of the River Tiddy. Unfortunately the tide was out, so it’s more the Muddy than the Tiddy, but the view of the railway viaduct was pretty cool, you guys know that I love big bridges! In a previous career I once walked across that, honest!20140531_155842 …and looking downstream. 20140531_155941Anyway, back to the biking… The next trip starts on Sunday 15th June, so please put that in the old diary! We are going to take the ferry down to Spain; try to find Andorra cos it’s kinda small; then to the Camargue; Alps; Italy; Burgundy….you get the idea! I have promised to lighten up on the Blog this time, Big John thought the last trip got a bit “heavy”. Well, yes it did, but then it was a pretty emotional experience, but your support was great and I do appreciate that! So I will get back to the irreverent humour that I am notorious for!

Harley is going to need a new back tyre before we go away, that’s next weekend’s job, got 8000 miles out of the old one! With a new tyre comes the need to scrub it in with a few miles before going nuts with it. Oh hell, just gonna have to get out and ride again…life can be a real sod sometimes!

It’s TT week over on the Isle Of Man, lets hear it for Guy Martin on the Tyco Suzuki, crazy dude, but he deserves to win it! Sparky Paul and a few mates have gone over there camping, which means it will probably rain again! Thinking of you fellas.

Thinking of someone else, it’s a big “Get Well Soon” to Wilko Johnson, ace guitarist of amongst other bands Dr Feelgood, who has just got out of hospital after major pancreatic cancer surgery. Here’s hoping that you’re doing OK Wilko! …and for the rest of you, grab a listen to his album “Going Back Home” with Roger Daltrey, magic stuff! IMG_0336Catch you all soon.

‘I wanna live the way I like, sleep all the morning, goin’ to get my fun at night!’

Dookes

Water, Water, Everywhere!

OK, hands up first of all…I know this is supposed to be a blog about travels on my Harley, but sometimes it’s also got to be about the bigger journey through life! Now I’m not about to claim that the following little tale is about anything profound, but it’s an example of how life can sometimes give you a good kick in the backside just for the fun of it!

Lets go back to last Wednesday evening, when I noticed a puddle of water appearing in the garden of Dookes H.Q.. Knowing that we have a water main passing through our land, I thought it prudent to give our local water company a call on their “Emergency Leak Line”. An hour and a bit later we were graced with a visit from one of their finest, who not only confirmed that we did indeed have a leak, the night’s lesson in the bleedin’ obvious, but by prodding around with his listening rod actually made water bubble up out of the ground at a faster rate! Then came the prize decision, that it would be OK to leave until the next morning, because “We don’t like to dig in the dark.” So that’s how at six o’clock on Thursday morning we woke to the sight of our splendid new lake, oh and the waterfall down into our neighbours gardens! Another phone call to the Emergency number saw the Water Company then take a further hour and a half to turn the torrent off! Good job it wasn’t gas!20140424_070019

Once the flow abated it was time to take stock. Two of our neighbours had twelve inches of water throughout the ground floor of their houses, another had water to carpet level in their study. We were much luckier, our house was spared but Harley’s home, my workshop, aka “The Man Cave”, had been under two inches of clay laden H2O! Oh well, out with the mop and fire up the de-humidifiers!

Fortunately most things were stored off the floor, but one or two items did not fare too well. My carbon fibre crash helmet, Mrs D’s bone dome and my spare biker boots were all swamped, along with some engineering tools and other bits and bobs. Our neighbours have had to move out of their houses whilst drying operations are carried out. After five days of consideration the Water Company have accepted liability, so good of them!

20140424_101939

Once dug up, the pipe was found to have a split that was 92 inches long! It took five hours to fix on the day, but the clean up will take weeks or maybe months! Harley was unscathed, just as well really…I’m not very nice when I get upset!

On the bright side, all this water and sunshine has brought the Cowslips on a treat!DSCF3312

Catch you all later

…and I hope I’ll see you soon, I’ll be home come hell or high water!

Dookes

True Hope Is Swift and Flies With Swallows Wings

Hello everyone.

Where has the time gone since we returned from France? Before I had got used to being back north of the English Channel, wham, it was the Easter holiday! I believe that here in the UK, Easter has now become the number one D.I.Y. weekend of the year. Oh yeah? Not at Dookes H.Q. with the weather forecast that we had, is wasn’t going to be!

Well OK, I did have to tidy up a small paved area between the kitchen garden and the house and then cut the grass…..then get out on Harley!

So Saturday lunchtime saw us flying east along the A30 to Okehampton and a quick dash around Waitrose for some essentials. The town is charming and historic, situated on the northern edge of Dartmoor. It grew wealthy through the medieval wool trade and still much of its life still revolves around agriculture, I really like the place. It’s also only about 15 minutes from home, depending on the right wrist twist! After our short shopping spree, Harley and I took in the scenery at Sourton Tor.

IMG_0335

Lovely day, eh?

Anyway, Harley and I set off in search of a little more open road and it seemed a good idea to head north-west and take the long way home. That’s when it occurred to me that I had forgotten something from the shopping list. Oh well, better go a bit further out of our way to Holsworthy and another Waitrose store, did I mention that they give away free coffee? That’s when I noticed that we were being escorted aloft by those wonderful harbingers of summer, the dark blue Barn Swallows.IMG_0324Thanks to Malene Thyssen for the use of this lovely photo!

These are one of my favourite little birds and their return to our shores each year is a clear sign that summer is really on its way. I really felt good, lifted and content; Harley was purring along happily, the Swallows wheeled and swooped as if they were also enjoying the day. The warm spring sun shone on us, life can really deal you a good hand some days! It was just what I needed after the somewhat ‘heavy’ tone of our visit to The Somme. Big John told me that he thought some of my blog posts from the last trip were a bit dark; yeah you are probably right mate, but now:

I’m just glad to be here, happy to be alive!

Catch you all soon.

Dookes

 

Reflections

On Tuesday morning we left our overnight accommodation in Avranches and rode along the Normandy coast to Mont Saint-Michel. This is the famous island commune that lies approximately half a mile off the mainland and is now a UNESCO world heritage site. When I last visited, twelve years ago, it was possible to drive along the causeway virtually to the island. These days, in a bid to control the three million visitors a year, there is a park and ride bus service from a massive and superb car park. It was a shame that we couldn’t get any closer, so this photo will have to do!DSCF3286We then had a super sprint back to Roscoff, with a visit to the hypermarket and then the beach at Carentec for a photo stop, before boarding the ship for home.

DSCF3298

Our ferry crossing back started with a bit of a heavy swell, but soon the sea eased and with the setting sun, it was a very pleasant trip across the water.DSCF3306It’s now Wednesday evening at Dookes H.Q.. I just washed the Normandy mud off Harley and have had a chance to take stock of our frantic few days in France.

As ever the motor-cycling has been total joy, yes even when we got caught in the thunderstorm – things like that show how good your equipment is as well! The French autoroutes may be a bit tedious, but they pass through wonderful countryside, whilst the lovely ‘D’ roads are just that, as a dear friend of mine says, “lovely!”

For the remainder of our visit it was a real mix of emotions. The cemeteries are strange places, each seems to have it’s own specific atmosphere as indeed do the battle sites. We visited many of the Commonwealth War Graves, a couple of French ones and also the German cemetery at Fricourt. The latter is a most disturbing place, very austere and quite depressing, with rows of graves marked by stark metal crosses and only the chilling squawk of crows in the trees for company, there are no tended flowers or shrubs. I’m not being anti-German or jingoistic, it really did feel different. Here we saw four mass graves containing the remains of nearly 12,000 men, over half of whom are unknown. I noticed that one cross had a message from a German chap who had been looking for and found his Grandfather, just like me really, except that mine did not remain in the soil of the Somme like his. I did say no more cemetery photographs, but this is part of Fricourt, just so you can see what I mean. DSCF3192In the cemeteries of each nation we saw graves from many different faiths; Muslim, Christian, Jewish, Hindu, Secular…the list is long. The French people are fantastic in their attitude towards remembering the Great War. There is a real sense of protecting the legacy and ensuring that the young are taught about the sacrifice and significance of what had happened in their country. On Sunday morning we saw a number of groups of school children being guided around near Pozières. I spoke to one of the guides, a local school teacher, who told me that all of the children in the local area are taught about the events of nearly 100 years ago as a matter of great importance. She asked if I had any link with the Battle of the Somme and when I told her about my Grandfathers, she thanked me for what they had done. I was humbled.

The former battle grounds are interesting, often for what still remains on view, aside from the incredible historic story. Beaumont-Hamel, a scene of tremendous sacrifice by Canadian troops from Newfoundland, has been bought by the Government of Canada to permanently secure the memory of what happened on that spot. The trenches can still clearly be seen, although now covered in grass, one or two are open to allow visitors to see where the Canadian troops once fought and died. It was a moving thing to quietly walk in there on such a pleasant spring evening. DSCF3248In nearby Delville Wood, where South Africans had fought from shattered tree to shattered tree, the shell holes are now covered in wood anemone and bluebells. It is a very tranquil place that I found imbibes a sense of well-being and contentment, most comforting. DSCF3225

France is currently gearing up to four years of commemorations linked to the centenary of the events of the 1914-1918 war. True, the cynics can say that there is a degree of cashing in on the whole Great War nostalgia thing. What I have seen, however, is a determination to mark the dates with dignity and reconciliation, whilst welcoming visitors from all over the world.

I believe that history still has much to teach us; both about the past and if we look hard enough, about ourselves now and in the future. Maybe sometimes we just need to look a little harder.

I’m just grateful that I ride such a wonderful machine whilst I keep looking!

I’ve got a silver machine!

Catch you all soon.

Dookes