Everything Flows and Nothing Abides

I don’t often get melancholy, but the other day I was sitting in a rather beautiful spot on the Cornish coast just taking in the atmosphere and I sort of came over a bit “Strange.”

Sure, I was happy enough in myself and my life is pretty cool. . .

I am rich in many, many, ways, though I’m not super-wealthy cash-wise, anyway who really needs loads of surplus money?!?!

We live in a beautiful part of the country, in a wonderfully historic house. I’m married to a fantastic lady who totally understands and supports my need to travel. I lead an interesting life that at times gets punctuated with outlandish adventures, some of which I relate here. I think that I’m pretty healthy too. In other words, I’m very happy and content.IMG_0836

So, why have I been feeling a bit melancholy of late?

Well, the truth is that it’s all about the one thing that we all have no control over in life, you know, time.

I’m lucky that I have a cadre of close friends. Most of whom I’ve known for many years and like old wine we have aged well together.

We laugh and joke about how we have changed over the years. We compare wrinkles, laughter lines, hair loss and wonder at how hair that you couldn’t believe could turn grey actually does!

The sad inevitability of time is that none of us can, or will, last forever and just to underscore that one of my friends, if I can put it this way “checked out,” recently.

From diagnosis to “Adios,” took Dave only five weeks, two of which he was in a coma. Bummer!

He was a good pal and we had many excellent times together. We had a common love of steam locomotives and helped to maintain one historic engine in mainline running order. Dave helped me keep my own steam roller on the road as well, I still have the whistle he gave me for it. We worked together when we secured a contract to provide engineering support services for a Cross-Chanel ferry company back in the ‘90s. Most of all we enjoyed each other’s company immensely, sharing a common offbeat sense of humour that often culminated in our infamous double act of the two “Hicks” who used to talk to the trees! Happy and good times indeed, memories that I will treasure for as long as I’m around.

Then there’s my mate G, who regulars to this blog will know is currently undergoing chemo-therapy for leukaemia. He’s doing OK, has ups and downs, but is hanging in there. I’ve got us tickets for one of the Rugby Six Nations games at Cardiff next Spring, so he’d better get himself well by then or there will be trouble!

All this reinforces that the 18-year-old, who many years ago thought himself invincible, actually isn’t that at all!

Around two thousand five hundred years ago the Greek philosopher Heraclitus said, “Everything flows, but nothing abides.” I think he was a pretty on the mark when he established that change was central to the workings of the Universe. What really underscores that, is the growing list of parts of my body that ache every day, but hey if it ain’t worn out it ain’t been used, eh?

Autumn is truly setting in here now, the leaves are falling fast and the first dreary days of the season have set in, which is only to be expected for the time of year. Soon the vibrant colours of the falling leaves will be gone, but like the memories of departed loved ones they will remain etched in our consciousness, bright golden and glowing. That way they never really die, it’s not all bad.

Today dawned dry, cold and bright; time to ride and put things back into perspective.

Of course it was Harls who I rolled out of the workshop. . .

Simple really, start her up, warm the engine, engage first gear, then find a nice twisty road and ride!

Sixty head clearing and spirit lifting miles later, we paused on the edge of Dartmoor to drink in the morning, check the scenery and monitor the life perspective. Yep, everything had been reset nicely!P1050051
Riding home was sublime and when I switched off the engine back at H.Q., Mrs Dookes was waiting. “You needed that,” she smiled and knew I was back in a better place. Like I said earlier, she’s a fantastic lady!

. . . and everything else? As the song says:

“It’s better to have loved and lost, than never have loved at all.”

Catch you all soon and thanks for your support.

Dookes

Ghost Hunting

Since returning from Brittany, life seems to have taken a slightly hectic turn, but needless to say I haven’t let that get in the way of enjoying my bikes on a series of nice little rides!

Most of the UK has been blessed with an early autumn of stunningly beautiful weather and our little corner has been well within the sunshine zone, so it was only right to give both bikes a breath of fresh air. First up a quick blast across Bodmin Moor on Harls! As always it was great to be on two wheels, even better on a bike that I absolutely adore riding. It’s funny, but since I bought the new Ultra Limited I somehow appreciate my old Harls even more than ever. Her staccato exhaust, open riding position and laid-back style may not be to everyone’s taste, but I love her! Sure she’s not as hi-tech as her new stable mate, could do with another top gear and better brakes, but she has character and personality in abundance. They can bury me sitting on that bike! P1040943

One morning recently I had to do some business in Bodmin, one of our local towns, and after that was concluded the whole day was begging not to be wasted. With a mind to getting out on the open road I took “Baby Harls,” my Ultra Limited and had one of those lovely moments as I pondered, “Now, where shall we go?”

The sky looked a deeper shade of blue towards the East, so we hit the A38 trunk road and headed across the River Tamar.

Now at this point I must confess that the two main trunk roads out of Cornwall, the A30 and A38, are best described as “tedious.” Sure, they get you to where you want to go reasonably quickly and actually both cover some pretty scenery, but that’s it. They can both get snarled up with traffic at times and also seem to attract more than their fair share of really bad drivers, but no I’m not about to launch into a Dookes rant, so lets just leave it there!

After cruising about sixty miles we turned off the ’38 and passed through the old market town and tidal port of Totnes. Feeling a “heritage” moment coming on, I followed the signs towards the small village of Berry Pomeroy and it’s romantic, though magnificently ruined castle.

Once a medieval castle and later a sumptuous Elizabethan mansion, Berry was the home of the Seymour and Pomeroy families. The remains lie in a beautiful woodland setting and have the reputation of being one of the most haunted castles in England; I just had to go see for myself!

What I found I pretty much fell in love with straight away.

The Gatehouse.

The Gatehouse.

The original castle dates from the 1400’s, but by 1560 the owning Seymour family began a re-construction odyssey that was to last nearly 100 years and would never be completed. Sadly, much of the finest building work was dismantled in the Eighteenth Century, but plenty remains to show just how grand the place must have been in it’s heyday.

The Elizabethan House

The Elizabethan House

Today the castle is in the custodianship of English Heritage and open to the public, but still belongs to the descendants of the original owners. To find out more about it you can follow the link here.

I think I’ll let the pictures do the talking.

The East Range 1600-10.

The East Range 1600-10.

Inside the Elizabethan Ruins.

Inside the Elizabethan Ruins.

The Elizabethan House From The Great Hall.

The Elizabethan House From The Great Hall.

The Curtain Wall and St Margaret's Tower.

The Curtain Wall and St Margaret’s Tower.

Leaving Berry Pomeroy and not having spotted any ghosts, we headed North to Ashburton and set off across Dartmoor, this was turning into a very self-indulgent day!

The road across the moor initially starts by back tracking the River Dart through its narrow valley and deep woodland. This road was one of the first that I rode my new “Baby” on earlier in the year and brought back many happy memories.

Early Spring on the River Dart.

Early Spring on the River Dart.

It was early spring then and now the seasons have moved on, autumn is getting well into her lovely stride. The woods held the unmistakable smell of resinous falling leaves, something that to me embodies this time of year. On the high moor the summer bracken has tuned the same red as the wild native ponies and grass is beginning to take on a slightly yellow hue as it’s feed value diminishes.P1040994 There are hard cold days ahead and this country can be very hard indeed, though at the same time stunningly beautiful.P1050001

It makes you appreciate how good it is to be alive and enjoying it!P1040999

“It ain’t no sin to be glad you’re alive.”

Catch you soon.

Dookes

A House Call

As I’ve reported previously, my Welsh mate G is currently undergoing chemotherapy in his fight against leukaemia. Just lately he’s been in and out of hospital quite a lot with a series of blood transfusions and tests.

Being the optimistic little sod that he is, this is not such a bad thing; you see the Rugby World Cup is currently underway and as England are the hosts, all of the games are being screened on television. So a spell in hospital = an opportunity to watch rugby, great!

But, it ain’t all that great.

The whole cancer thing is shit; if you excuse me being so basal.

G was at home the other day, his family were going out and rugby was going to be on the television. Hey, a friend has got to do what friends do best; I bought the sausages and Greg cooked lunch! Well Ok, I did have a super 50 mile ride over to his place too! I took Harls, I needed her rawness, simplicity and noise.
P1050015
The ride was lovely; it was one of those mornings when the diffused sunlight gives the world an ethereal feel, all cosy and comforting, if a tad on the cool side with the first chill of autumn.

Greg lives in Devon, the neighbouring county to Cornwall where Dookes H.Q. is based. It’s one of the wonderful things about geography, the two counties are separated by one river, the Tamar, but in many ways couldn’t be more different. Cornwall reflects its hard rock granite foundations and tends to be a bit craggy and sharp; whilst Devon mostly sits on softer Old Red Sandstone making for a more rolling landscape that is very easy on the eye. P1050009

We had a great afternoon together. He may be unwell, but his cooking is as good as ever. We laughed a lot, the rugby was entertaining, we watched videos of motorcycle road trips and did loads of planning for future trips when Greg is well again. It’s looking like most of Europe and Scandinavia won’t be safe once we get going!

Riding home I had time to reflect on the true value of friendship. To me it’s not like family, with real friends its much deeper than that. I’ve had too many family members really hurt me over the years, but my friends never have. Sure we’ve pissed each other off on occasions, but with true friends you can tell each other why and how, then move on. Greg and I have shared many experiences over the years and I aim to share many more with him in future.

The rumble of Harl’s exhaust as we rode home into the setting evening sun was comforting. Yes, perhaps I was going a tad fast at times, but I felt vibrantly alive. This compulsory getting older thing is a bit of a bummer; growing up is, in my book, still optional!

“Summers going fast, 
nights growing colder. 

Children growing up
, old friends growing older.


Freeze this moment a little bit longer
, make each sensation a little bit stronger.”

Catch you soon.

Dookes

Faire Une Promenade

Today dawned misty and still in the heart of Brittany.

Petit déjeuner was a leisurely affair, as it should be on a Sunday morning, my pal Denis produced one of his legendary omelettes. With that, plus croissants, bread, jam, fruit compote, pain au chocolat, yogurt and cheese it was substantial enough to keep me going most of the day! Even more reasons to love this wonderful country.

Anyway, once the sun got to work burning off the mist, we decided to take a gentle drive to Vannes, a pleasant old sea port on the Morbihan coast. These days the place is popular amongst the yachting set as its harbour extends right into the centre of town and countless bars and cafés nestle almost alongside the moored boats. In my younger days I was quite partial to a bit of sailing , but these days I prefer to get my kicks on dry land!

We parked up just outside the medieval city walls and took a gentle walk, or as the French say, “Faire une Promenade,” through the formal gardens down to the harbour.P1040888P1040896As you can see, the weather clerk has been very kind to us.
At the end of the harbour’s inner arm were a couple of old gaff rigged traditional Breton fishing boats. Brittany is justifiably proud of its maritime tradition and to see old timers such as this is not at all uncommon. I guess it’s no surprised to say that I love ’em!P1040897
The modern plastic tubs all seem so “ordinary” in comparison, I wonder if any will be preserved in 100 years time?P1040900
Leaving the harbour we strolled around the medieval quarter and enjoyed its narrow streets and wonky buildings.P1040910
We ended up at the wonderfully ostentatious Hôtel de Ville which makes quite a statement of the past glories of this historic sea port!P1040916
All that remained was a leisurely return to the Château for an afternoon dip in the pool, which was bathed in sunshine before I took this photo!.P1040917
Then, another “promenade” around the Château grounds in glorious evening light in company of our friends and their two terriers. This really is a lovely place.P1040918P1040926P1040931. . . and now dear reader, as Denis says, “Il est temps pour un petit verre.” – It’s time for a little glass/drink. . . .  Salut!

“When the rhythm’s really fine, rare and sweet as vintage wine”

Catch you soon.

Dookes

PS I’m feeling a bit guilty enjoying myself so much, as my mate Greg has just spent all weekend back in hospital on an antibiotic drip, having picked up an infection after his chemo session last week. Fortunately the Welsh rugby team cheered him up with a good victory over Uruguay in Cardiff today. Thinking of you mate, hwyl fawr!

Early Autumn in France

The last warmth of summer is still kissing Europe and before everything descends into the gloom and damp of winter it seems a good idea to grab a few days holiday with Mrs Dookes in France.

Sadly, I am forbidden from taking either of my beloved Harleys, but really that’s no such a bad idea as we can fit far more shopping into the car!

Our friends Château in mid-Brittany makes a luxurious and perfect base for enjoying the local countryside and small towns. Yesterday, Saturday, we popped into Josselin to enjoy the atmosphere of the street market and also because it’s a really nice town, if a tad over-run at times by tourists! Bear with me if you have seen photo’s of the imposing Château before, but it’s so iconic it deserves another look.P1040874
The market was in full flow and a real treat for the senses with the smell of cooking food, fresh vegetables, herbs and bread alongside stalls selling everything from shoes, carpets and clothes. There was even one vendor selling old vinyl LP’s, magic!P1040879We bought a selection of Saucisson Sec, a variety of olives and a tress of delicious smoked garlic which has now wonderfully infused the car with its heady aroma, happy days indeed!

P1040885
After a full day shopping and just touring around, we enjoyed a leisurely swim in the pool back at the Château before indulging in our hosts splendid cooking over dinner.
It’s really not a bad way to spend an early autumn day.P1040886
Catch you all soon.
Dookes (& Mrs D)

Friends; In Need, Indeed.

Its been a strange few months in the world of Dookes.

First up and with the support of Mrs Dookes I decided to jack in the rat race, calm down and retire early. It’s big tick in the box for that one, but I’ll be honest it’s still taking a bit of getting used to! So much so that I’ve found something to keep me out of mischief for a few days a week . . . more details of that in a future post though! Yeah, I’m a tease.

Then, just as I was getting used to life changes I got the news about my mate G, or Greg as you all now know him.

I’ll be honest, the situation that G has found himself in has hit me sideways and in a way that I would never have thought possible. I really get what he wrote about dealing with the realisation of a cancer diagnosis, in his words; “Or one of my friends…

I can handle it, it’s me…. A strange one but as it’s me it makes it bearable.”

He had his first dose of Chemotherapy on Wednesday and late in the afternoon I received a text message from him to let me know how he’d got on. We played message ping-pong for a few minutes each response getting a bit sillier! At the time I was sitting on a cliff high above the Atlantic rollers on the North Cornwall coast. G’s ever optimistic messages both heartened me and humbled me at the same time. Looking West, the approaching sunset and majestic clouds lifted my spirits as I worried for my friend and at the same time felt so utterly helpless.P1040839

The evening before I had enjoyed a wonderful ride with an other dear friend, Vifferman. In fact, as regular blogonaughts may recall, Viff is my oldest friend we go back over 50 years.

Viff understood that I needed a bit of support and a good thrash on two wheels followed by fish and chips by the sea in Bude was an excellent antidote for the “feeling hopelessly useless” blues! Thanks Viff.P1040811OK, its a Honda, buts it’s Vifferman’s Honda!

Anyway, the point is that as usual Vifferman gets it and this time he could see that I was a bit “Wobbly.” It’s probably a culmination of lots of things that has made this a pretty emotional summer, but the main thing is how the friends network is working and supporting each other, which is just great.

No really surprising that it all largely revolves around two wheels either!

“At night we ride through mansions of glory in suicide machines.”

Catch you all soon,

Dookes

PS Special thanks to Mrs Dookes, Alba, Curtis, Bones, Ginamarie, John and many others for being there too, you all mean the world to me!

With Courage The World Spins On

Here in the far South West of the British Isles the first week of September has been glorious; warm sunshine, blue skies and pleasant temperatures.P1040782

P1040792

Yesterday however, the first storm of Autumn hit Cornwall. We had the joy of 60mph winds, driving horizontal rain and just for good measure a blasting of hailstones!

This morning I nervously walked around the grounds of Dookes H.Q. to check for damage. These early storms can often wreak havoc with the trees still in leaf and, in the case of our orchard, heavy with apples. Fortunately we seem to have got off lightly and apart from a bucketful of dropped fruit all seems well.P1040809

As I wandered around picking up the windfall apples in pleasant sunshine which was such a contrast to yesterday I pondered simple pleasures of life and precious moments.

The news about my friend G’s illness has certainly deeply affected me in a way that I would not have thought possible previously. I suppose that I contrast it with some pretty selfish actions by members of my own family, who frankly don’t realise how lucky they are with their comfortable lives, yet act in pretty low ways to others when it suits them! Anyway, enough of that, I am valuing my friends even more than ever now and realise much stronger that life really is for living ‘cos its pretty short!

So time to enjoy some more miles on two wheels.

Muchelney Abbey on the Somerset Levels seemed like a good place to go the other day. It was a round trip of about 250 miles, so just right to blow away some cobwebs and also drop in on a couple of friends as well. The ruins comprise the foundations of a medieval Benedictine Abbey, earlier 7th Century Saxon remains and a Tudor house from the 1500’s which was formerly the home of the resident Abbot. P1040768I could write a whole blog post just on this one place, so I’ll save more details for another day. Yeah, I know I’m a tease!P1040778
I had a super day and thoroughly enjoyed every minute of the ride. Shortly after I got home the phone rang, it was G with the latest news from his scan and treatment.

We talked for ages; bikes, family, friends, life and his illness were all covered and pretty much in that order! In a way it seemed that we both needed to be connected.

Anyway, G wanted to thank all you good people out there in “Blog World” for the messages of support that you have been sending via the Hogrider Dookes pages. He has posted a reply elsewhere, but I really need to add my thanks to you all and also post his message here.

On behalf of my friend and also myself, thank you, over to you G!

“What can I say….. Touched is too light a word and a cliché, but reading some of the responses to the posts is an amazing feeling and a great support… ….. But don’t give up on just me yet…
As long as I can ride a motorcycle then i’m living….. They can pull those keys from my cold dead hand!
I’ve known Dookes for a long time now… A friend and a confidant .. A riding buddy…Those in the biking world will know of the bond shared…. There are very few like him.

But lets remain positive… I’m lucky.. It wasn’t my wife Nettie that was diagnosed, if it had been then my world would have fallen apart, right from the moment they said “Cancer” My life would have ended.

It wasn’t one of my children….

Or one of my friends…

I can handle it, it’s me…. A strange one but as it’s me it makes it bearable.

Chemo starts on Wednesday…. Which means Wednesday is the start of the road to recovery..

I’ve felt so ill for so long and I didn’t realise it … Two units of blood made me feel semi normal… but that priceless elixir is running out and I didn’t really realise how ill I am, or was…. But I thank the person who donated it… I really do… I just wish I could say thank you…

Because of the chemo I can’t ever give blood … so i’ll find another way to give something back…

So Dookes, a monster tour somewhere….???

A big thank you to you all I really appreciate the support.

Greg”

You got it mate.

Dookes

. . . and now its time to ride again.

The World Stood Still

Back from wine gathering in Italy and France, I spent last Thursday on the glorious coast of North Cornwall. At this point I remember that I had intended to do a regular “Coast” spot in the blog and as yet have not delivered that promise, sorry about that. The weather has been a bit mixed since the heat of Italy, but Thursday was glorious.DSCF4078
Shortly after I got home the phone rang, it was my old friend G. We go back quite a few years to when we were both running railways, we also share the common interests of motorcycles, shooting and Welsh rugby. G’s sing-song Swansea accent always gives me a lift as it usually means we are about to get up to some new adventure! For the first five minutes of our conversation it was typical G, asking how I was, what I’d been up to easing into retirement, how were the bikes and of course enquiring after Mrs Dookes. Then, almost as an aside, he slipped into the conversation four words.

“I’ve got cancer mate.”

The world stood still.

I could almost hear my own blood hissing around my head as I took in what he had said and then all I could say was “Where?”

Dumb, stupid and clumsy, that’s me in certain situations.

“Every f****ng where, it’s a form of leukaemia.”

G went on to tell me about his diagnosis and the tests he had recently been through, including an excruciating bone marrow sample taken from his hip bone under local anaesthetic. He had been informed that his condition was quite rare and the type was viewed as highly aggressive. His treatment starts next Tuesday with a blood transfusion and then he is straight into chemotherapy.

Outlook? Well, I don’t really know. G is always an optimistic sod, to him it doesn’t matter if the glass is half full or half empty as there’s a bar in the room anyway! That’s one of the reasons I love that little bugger!

All I know is that he’s my friend and I’m here for him and his family; I told him that and at that point we had to sort of stop, because we were both near to tears.

The next day, Friday morning, I wheeled Harls out of the workshop and hit the road, I needed to get my head around the previous evening’s conversation and find some space to take it in. I found myself drawn to the beautiful setting of the ruins of Restormel Castle, a good place to think.P1040723
The castle was originally built nearly 1000 years ago, most of what remains dates from around 1300 and is pretty impressive, with truly lovely views that are very easy on the eye.P1040733

P1040736
After the tranquility of Restormel we hit the road again and reeled off another 60 miles. I’m glad I took Harls my beloved Softail, the staccato growl from her shotgun pipes and the way that I was able to aggressively, yet safely, ride her were just the tonic I needed. The ride was for G as well as me!

So please can you do me a favour?

Think of my mate and all the others like him. If prayer is something you do, then by all means say one for all those that have to deal with such situations, if not just positive thought will do. . .
And me? I’m here ready to do anything I can, he’s my mate you know.

Catch you soon and thanks for listening.

Dookes

Return to Italy

This retirement game is pretty OK, particularly with such a fantastic summer of sport going on all around.

First there was the splendour and power of Le Tour de France, then the cricket test matches between England and Australia have enthralled and are now being followed by the first warm up games for the rapidly approaching Rugby Union World Cup. If only the weather in the UK was quite as predictable!

Time to slip back to Italy for a top up of coffee, fine wine and sunshine!

It’s true to say that I have fallen hopelessly in love with everything I have seen so far in Italy. The country is a place where passion is worn on one’s sleeve and wow, do the Italians get passionate about things! On top of which, everyone I have met have been friendly, happy and super welcoming. Note to self; learn to speak the language better this winter!

Drifting back to the hills of Piedmont, in the North West of Italy, on a Harley Davidson is no hardship at all! The name Piedmont apparently comes from latin, meaning “at the foot of the mountains,” though if you speak French it is also easy to see the link and as the area is bounded on three sides by the Alps it’s also pretty obvious too!

Piedmont is an important industrial region, it is home to FIAT the automobile manufacturer, but for me more importantly is one of the greatest wine-producing regions in Italy. Here they do not make “old rot gut” stuff, oh no, this is the home of top end prestigious wines such as Barbaresco, Moscato d’Asti and most revered of all, Barolo. P1040478

Situated about 30 miles southeast of Turin, yet light years away in time, lies the small town of Barolo, population 750, which gives it’s name to this most majestic of wines. On my last trip I slightly slipped up, I didn’t buy enough, so hence my return!DSCF3864

We rolled into the compact town square just after midday. The town was quiet, actually it was more than that, it was dead. The hot air was still and the scorching sun reflected back off the terracotta roof tiles making the sky above shimmer. It’s an unassuming little place, really only attractive from a distance when the red tiles stand out against the verdant vineyards that run right up to the edge of town. From a small bar came muffled voices and the alluring scent of strong Italian coffee.
P1040477
Baby Harley’s engine ticked as she cooled gently in the heat of the narrow streets. A large truck with French registration plates rumbled past, stirring dusty clouds up off the parched road.

I walked through the open door into the shady interior of the bar and ordered a double espresso and lunch. The sunlight penetrated in shards of light that captured a million dust particles hanging like shimmering diamonds in the still air. I settled in a corner chair, rubbed my eyes and realised how much the ride had taken out of me. The lady working behind the bar smiled and delivered my coffee accompanied with a carafe of water and a glass; the Italians know much about coffee and the obligatory water was certainly welcome.

My ears were singing a high-pitched wail as a dumped my riding jacket on the tiled floor. Riding motorbikes plays hell with my tinnitus, even with ear protection and a quiet helmet; it’s the legacy of years working with noisy railway locomotives!

I sipped the strong, excellent coffee and pondered the sanity of riding to Barolo just for some wine. Yep, definitely a good idea!

La Signora reappeared and placed a plate of heaven on the table in front of me. Filetto Baciato, made from pork fillet marinated in white wine then coated with a paste made from salami and packed into a sausage casing to age for six months, wood roasted artichoke hearts and fresh asparagus spears, a small jug of olive oil, some crisp bitter salad leaves and of course Grissini, the Turin breadstick now common all over Italy. Piedmont is rightly famous for it’s simple cuisine, at its gamey best in the autumn, but hey this is summer so go with what’s available, I’m not complaining! I contemplated a cold beer, but no, I’m riding, so stick to water.

The other patrons of the bar are seemingly locals, it’s not the sort of establishment that really attracts tourists and that suits me fine. There are probably about a dozen other people as well as me, cutlery chinks against plain solid crockery as we all eat, enjoy our lunches and for those with companions, talk. My Italian language skill is not great, but I catch snatches of conversation and smile at the animated way that views are exchanged, deals made and the food discussed, yes this food deserves to be discussed it’s simple and very good.

You know, just about everywhere I go it’s always about the food and sadly mine is now finished.

I catch La Signora’s eye and order another coffee. Well, why not, I don’t intend to sleep for hours yet! She returns with a fresh cup and offers a bottle of grappa. It’s another Italian tradition that I love, whereby the spirit is supposed to take the edge off the caffeine or the caffeine off the alcohol, I get the logic, but either way I politely decline!

Coffee gone, I settle up and step outside back into the furnace of this scorching summer. It’s nearly two in the afternoon and the glass is reading 34 degrees Celsius. Time to hunt down this small town’s most famous product and ride on!P1040712
Guess that’s mission accomplished!

“I love wine, women an’ song.”

Catch you soon.

Dookes

Tears In A Museum

I guess it could be said of me that I am like many men, in that I don’t normally show my inner emotions. Sure, I’ll go as bonkers as anyone when I’m at a sporting event and my team are doing well and yes I’m not slow in showing my displeasure if I feel that someone has done my family or I wrong! Other than that, no, don’t expect much else . . . normally.

Certainly the last place that I expected emotions to take hold of me would be in a railway museum.

It’s true that railways and locomotives have shaped much of my life, my late father was a mechanical engineer and much of my career involved actually running railways, you could say that it’s sort of in my blood and something that will never leave me! If I visit a museum like the fantastic Cité du Train in Mulhouse, I expect to be fascinated by the variety of exhibits, in awe of the craftsmanship that has made many of the locomotives and carriages and intrigued by the different operating equipment and practices. Only once have I been rendered numb by an exhibit and that occurred in Mulhouse.

The first hall of the museum is amazing. The different exhibits are each presented in atmospheric and dramatic pools of light, I loved it! The mood captures the drama of a night-time departure.P1040199
The efforts of the French Resistance movement in sabotaging the railways during World War Two. P1040011 . . . and of course lunch on the Orient Express!P1040051

Each exhibit has an audio-visual display that explains the details, what to look for and often the human stories associated, all very well done indeed.
In one dark corner I noticed a relatively small freight car and wandered over to take a closer look. It was the sort of vehicle that was used for carrying general cargo or even livestock, basically a simple ventilated box on wheels. Looking closer I noticed the stencilled lettering on the side of the car.P1040037I froze, stunned, shocked, appalled. I realised that I was looking at one of the vehicles used for the deportation of people during the dark Holocaust of World War Two. The stencil indicated that 40 people could be carried in this goods van of only 18 square metres area. In contrast, 8 horses could be carried instead.
I sat on a convenient bench and watched the accompanying audio/visual screen. The commentary detailed how the deportation of people was carried out by the occupying Nazi forces; the story was very factual and professionally done and although bereft of emotion the horror of what occurred was clear to see. Families torn apart, old, young and infirm pushed by rifle butts into the cattle wagons, photographs of despair and fear. Examples of hastily scribbled letters that the deportees threw from trains were highlighted. Of course most of these poor people were on one way journeys, to the horrific extermination camps at places such as Auschwitz where an estimated 1.1 million were murdered.
The video screen flickered to blackness as the presentation came to and end. I sat numbly looking at the blank screen for a few seconds, then glanced up at the simple wooden bodied freight car. P1040038

In the darkness, I wept.