The Last Lap Home

OK, I need to be honest about this trip; I’ve found it really tough!

I’m thinking that its a mixture of things:
1. I’m out of practice riding motorcycles; with all the upheaval last year I just haven’t had time to get out on any kind of two wheels. Plus with all our things in storage, I couldn’t get at them anyway.
2. I’m carrying a couple of injuries at the moment, nothing serious, but enough to inhibit me a bit and at times make life a bit uncomfortable, plus I’m as a result not as fit as I like to be!
3. The weather. Riding in our Northern latitudes in early Spring is always going to be a bit of a lottery with the weather, plus inevitably it’s going to cold a times. OK, I do wear my heated clothing and it has been quite a bonus on this trip, but after a few hours in the saddle you do still feel the cold in the unheated bits! Rain doesn’t really bother me, except when it makes the roads greasy, as my gear is all very waterproof.
4. I’m getting older. No escaping this, I’m not going to let it stop me, but maybe I need to modify my approach to motorcycle touring in future?

Anyway, we are now home in Caithness, arriving here after a 300 mile push from Lauder in the Scottish Borders last Saturday.

I think that I can describe the day as a symphony in four movements…

Lauder to Edinburgh was delightful on open roads in the early morning crisp sunshine.

Scottish Borders Roads. Smooth, Sweeping, Empty.

Edinburgh ring road to Perth via the Queensferry Crossing was busy, very busy and not over enjoyable.

Queensferry Crossing.

Perth to Inverness on the A9 climbing into the Highlands was a hard section; fantastic scenery as the mountains rose around us, annoying traffic at times and getting colder.

Welcome to The Highlands, snow on the mountains still!

Inverness to Caithness, a feeling of opening freedom, clean air, less traffic, fun roads and the joy of getting near home.

Nearly Home!

The last bit is always something to be wary of, as many accidents befall motorcyclists at the end of long trips just as they are nearing home! A bit of light rain began to fall ten minutes from Dookes H.Q. and was enough to turn the roads quite greasy, so yes, time to be extra cautious!

Caithness Roads, take us home!

The trip is over now and though I’m still physically recovering from it, I’ve had time to process it all a bit.

It’s been strange doing a long trip in my own Country and by that I mean the UK.

In comparison to my many Continental Europe trips I was struck by how busy and crowded our small island is; I didn’t have to stray into any major city centres to notice that!
Everywhere in England people seemed to be always in a massive hurry and yes it was really noticeable how much things change once we got into Scotland.

I saw evidence throughout the journey of crumbling and neglected infrastructure. Roads were deteriorating and pot holes common; bloody dangerous for the unwary motorcyclist too! Even on the arterial Motorways, potholes were not uncommon and many motorway signs were becoming barely legible through weathering and neglect.
The verges of many roads were strewn with litter and obvious fly tipping in lay-bys seemed normal.
Considerate and careful driving was not over common…
In many ways parts of the trip were quite depressing, but then there were the people, people who were friendly, wanted to ask about Harls and just were interested in what we were doing; that was nice and rather up-lifting. More about them in another post I feel.

The scenery was the thing though; at time it’s just breathtakingly beautiful.
From distant glimpses of the Welsh mountains, the wide sweeping Severn Valley, the sturdy Pennines and West Riding of Yorkshire, the high Westmorland Fells, Scottish Borders and finally the Highlands, every region has such lovely natural treasures.
The 868 miles that we covered were worth it for that alone; even though I didn’t grab many pictures, so much variety in such a little island!
Would I want to do the whole trip again? No, I don’t think so, I’ve got a lot of other new places I really want to go and most of them are pretty much on my doorstep.

The view from Dookes H.Q.
The view from home at Dookes H.Q.

Now, I’m starting to build a new garage for Harls and Hettie and when I’ve done that we will be back out on the road, after all I have the whole of Scotland to explore!


Hope to catch you soon.

“This land is my land,
This land is your land,
From Cornwall to the Scottish Highlands,
This land was made for you and me” …with apologies to Woody Guthrie!

Dookes

On The Border

After the relentless rain in Lancashire yesterday afternoon, it was a relief to wake to almost dry skies.

Harls and I hit the road bang on nine o’clock and headed North, through Gisburn and then to Settle, which is at the South end of the famous Settle and Carlisle Railway.

The fells looked fabulous, but I wanted to push on and get a sixty mile section of the M6 Motorway out of the way.
I generally dislike riding on Motorways, not just because they are boring, but mostly they can be dangerous for motorcyclists. Dangerous through poor lane discipline and bad driving habbits of many other road users and wow were those on full display today!

Because the weather was so nice when we got on the motorway, I was planning to stop at Shap and maybe watch a few trains pass on the famous climb from Tebay; a gradient that used to severely tax the old steam locomotives and even makes modern traction cough a bit!

In my railway career days, I’ve driven trains over it and I know how it can catch out the unwary. It’s a stunning location, but is mountainous country and the weather can change in an instant…. just like today.
We were happily travelling up the sunny Lune Gorge just South of Shap, up ahead I could see ominous black clouds and mist, this was going to be interesting! True to form, we rapidly moved into reduced visibility, biblical rain and gale force winds; I do like a challenge, but the Shap stop was scrubbed!

The Fells though, have a habit of changing their mind fairly quickly and by Carlisle we got back into sunshine and swung off the dreadful motorway and onto the A7 road through the Scottish Borders.

The A7, my kind of road!

This road has long been on my UK bucket list and I wasn’t disappointed. It starts of innocuously enough, then sort of develops into a lovely scenic twisty indulgent asphalt ribbon of happiness.
It has enough jeopardy at times to keep a motorcyclist alert without being dangerous and some glorious straight bits where you can soak in the views or burn up the fuel a bit quicker.

I’m afraid that on the best bit, between Langholm and Hawick, I didn’t stop to take photos, I was too busy enjoying myself!
North of Galashiels though I grabbed a few pictures, it’s not bad, eh?

Tonight we are in the Royal Burgh of Lauder, a delightful small town about 30 miles South of Edinburgh. 

Tomorrow, it’s a big push of 300 miles back home to Caithness, with a brief stop at Edinburgh Harley Davidson to discuss service plans; yes they really are my “local” Harley Davidson Dealership and service workshop!

We will be traversing the Queensferry Crossing over the Firth of Forth adjacent to the famous Forth Bridge built to carry the North British Railway’s line from Edinburgh to Aberdeen in 1890.

Then its off to Perth and the Highlands, following the A9 just about all the way home…

The Highlands are calling me …..

Are you coming along for the ride?
Good, stands up at 09:00; Screw it, Let’s ride!

“On the border 
Leave me be , I’m just walkin’ this line 
On the border” 

Catch you soon,
Dookes

What We Do For Love

This blog is supposed to be about the my travels on my Harley Davidson motorcycles and to be honest, of late they haven’t featured very much.
Our move from one end of the UK to the other, Cornwall to Caithness has had a lot to do with that….not to mention that my beloved Softail, Harls, remained behind when we moved, waiting for me to collect her at a suitable date in the future.

Well that date has arrived!

I’m currently in Lancashire just over 300 miles from Cornwall and 450 still to go back to Caithness….and yes Harls is with me!

It’s Harls! Looking a bit road stained in the Lancashire rain.

We hit the road yesterday and wow, was it good to be sitting in her saddle again!
It had been a while since I last rode her, September last year to be honest, since then she has safely resided in my friend Peter’s workshop in Cornwall.
I’m pleased to say that after a thorough safety check, a wiff of air in the tyres and reconnecting the battery…she started first time, bursting back into life and happily burbling that familiar Harley “Potato, Potato” song from her exhaust.

I just fell in love with her all over again!

Yesterday we took a steady trundle up through the Welsh Marches to an ovenight stop in North Shropshire with two wonderful and special hosts, plus on the way meeting up with a very, very, special person who I hadn’t seen in years. That was quite some hug!!
It was quite an emotional day that left me feeling very happy and grateful for my many blessings.
Today we rode to Skipton, in the Yorkshire Dales, to drop in on to say hello and share a coffee with a mate. Tonight we are at the foot of Pendle Hill in Lancashire, made famous/infamous by the trial and execution of The Pendle Witches in 1612.

Yesterday and this morning we enjoyed glorious riding weather; this afternoon, not so great, with vicious winds and lashing rain. Let’s be honest, it was just the “Weather Clerk” checking out just how much I enjoy riding Harls…

How did it go?
Well, I will admit to being a bit “Ride Rusty” yesterday when we got going, not dangerously so, but I was having to think about what I was doing, but after a couple of hours I got into the groove and things became more instinctive and considerably more enjoyable.

It occurred to me that this is the first long distance ride that I have ever done in the UK and as such I really should embrace the same principle I apply to my long distance Continental trips.
In other words, as my late lamented mate Floyd used to say,
“To know a country, you must eat a country!”

Well OK Floyd; last night was Shropshire beef steak, beautifully cooked blue, just how I like it, accompanied by wonderful conversation and a toast to those we have lost

Tonight, it’s the local speciality of Pendle Pie a wonderfully calorie laden creation of beef in an ale gravy, topped with mash potatoes and cheese, served with seasonal vegetables. Accompanied with a pint, or two, of the local IPA.
“Only” 1055kcal, it’s how they keep the rain out in these parts!

It seems to be working!

Tomorrow we will get to Scotland, but with still a bunch of miles to follow on Saturday.
I could have had Harls shipped up, but I feel its only right to give her the dignity of arriving in her new home on her own two wheels.
I love that bike and for the people and things I love, I will do anything.

“Spread out the oil, the gasoline
I walk smooth, ride a mean, mean machine
Start it up”

Catch you soon,
Dookes

That Hurt!

Hello blogonaughts!

Back in April, I posted about fitting the new “Daymaker” LED headlamp to Harls and I also reported a minor injury to my right shoulder….
Well here we are four months later and I can now update that “minor” injury report to something altogether more tedious! Since the initial incident my shoulder and right arm has basically just got a whole lot worse, despite Sports Therapists, Physiotherapy and Doctors attention! You don’t all need to know my medical history, but I did smash up that shoulder about thirty years ago and a degree of my latest issues turned out to be related to that, joy! Anyway, yesterday saw Dookes in hospital for a reasonably simple procedure to, hopefully, rectify the problem and get life back to normal. I certainly had the best night’s sleep last night that i have enjoyed for months!

Today I feel like I have been kicked by a mule! The stabbing, sickening pain is however gone and i’m thankful for that; now all I have to do is get on with my recovery exercises and behave myself for a couple of weeks….Dookes is bouncing back!

Now, with all this shoulder and medical stuff going on, not to mention, grinding ,wearing, pain, I’ve needed something to raise the old Dookes spirits and what could be better than ordering some motorcycle parts…!

Not shiny farkles this time though, ooo no, Dookes is talking “performance parts.”
I’ve decided to fit a Stage Two tuning kit to Hettie, my FLHC Heritage Classic.

Hettie

Whats a Stage Two tune?

Simply put, Harley’s Stage Two kit contains a performance camshaft and adjustable pushrods.

These parts are intended to increase the duration of the valve opening and lift in the valve train. In other words, the new cam pushes the valves open further and keeps them open longer, which allows more fuel and air into the cylinders and equally clears the exhaust out more efficiently. Theres also a small tweek needed to the ECU mapping too.

I’ve chosen a kit which will increase engine torque and enhance performance in the low and mid-RPM range by up to 15%. This should translate into a crisp throttle response and faster acceleration at lower speeds, which comes in handy to pass slower vehicles without shifting down.

It should also sound really cool too!

I can’t wait for it to be fitted in a couple of weeks by my friends at Plymouth Harley Davidson. By then I should be fit enough to ride again too!

Catch you soon,

Dookes

Portents of Summer, Hospitals and New Crash Helmets

I’ve said it before, this whole “getting older” thing is a vibe that i’d rather not have…though given the reality of what the alternative is, I’ll settle for my discontented lot!

Just to ram things home on the ageing theme, this past week has seen me deliver one mate to hospital for corrective neck surgery and sit talking with two others who have both just returned from hospital having received a cancer diagnosis. On the plus side, my doctor called me in for a general checkover and a host of routine tests that I am pleased to report saw Dookes given a pretty good bill of health; I am grateful.

Whilst riding this wave of positivity and also enjoying some very nice weather which brought on the blossom on in our garden, I took the opportunity to pop out and ride a few miles on both of my lovely Harleys.

There was also the added bonus of wearing my heated jacket, which eased my injured shoulder considerably, double win then!

Being out on two wheels is always a great mental tonic for me, it resets everything, puts things into perspective and because you have to totally concentrate on the job in hand, everyday troubles are washed away, even if for just a short time.

Around Dookes H.Q. in North Cornwall we are blessed with a delightful selection of great roads to enjoy and just at the moment there are few holiday visitors about, so progress is easy and very enjoyable. A trip North up the Atlantic Highway to Westward Ho! on Hettie was delightful. I had coffee near the beach at Northam Burrows, as the surf breakers rolled in under azure skies.

Another day saw Harls and I heading across Bodmin Moor, no pics this time, just all-out riding pleasure.

Both rides saw me wearing my new crash helmet. For those of you who have never wore a motorcycle crash helmet, let me explain that breaking in a new helmet is never the greatest thing. Yes it may be your size, yes it may be exactly the same model as your old helmet, which fits like a lovely comfy glove, but it will take some time to bed into your head shape…or is that that your head takes some time to bed into the new helmet?!?!?

The new Schuberth C4 Pro.

Either way, it always seems to take ages for a new helmet to go from stiff and a tad uncomfortable to fitting in a way that you don’t realise you are wearing it any more; so shorter rides are a great way to go. I’ve ridden in Schuberth helmets for many years now and I am very happy with them, no connection other than as a satisfied customer.

Pausing to grab some fuel on my way home on Harls my eye was caught by a flash of dark blue in the sky and my heart was fully lifted…the first Swallow of summer skimmed past me on silent soaring wings!

A Swallow, Hirundo rustica. Photo, Ian F.

Aristotle wrote, in the First Book of Ethics, so very long ago, “One Swallow makes no summer.”
Well, yes, but it sure is a portent that Summer isn’t so very far away and I really needed that bit of symbolism!

“I need a shot of salvation baby, once in a while.”

Catch you soon,
Dookes

Farkles and Sparkles: Comfort and Safety

Earlier this year I went through a slightly worrying phase: I began to question whether I should keep both of my Harley Davidson motorcycles…after all, I can only ride one at a time!

This disturbing musing then threw up another dilemma. If I was to say goodbye to one of my bikes, which one should go?

“Sensible Head” says keep the newest, Heritage Classic Hettie: she has much lower mileage, is more powerful, has modern suspension, better luggage and is generally a bit more comfortable.

“Romantic Head” says keep Centenary Softail Harls; been places, done things and got great memories of the many, many, many miles we have rolled together.

I was still pondering my self imposed conundrum when I visited the local Dealership for Hettie’s service a few weeks back. It was whilst i was waiting that I wandered around the showroom and saw the price of bikes for sale. Not just brand new bikes, but also the price of pre-owned bikes.

I wasn’t just surprised…I was totally dumbstruck by how much Harley Davidson motorcycles were selling for. A new version of Hettie for example would set me back a cool £24,500! (Thats 24,500 UK Pounds) Add into that mix the various tweeks and additions that I’ve done to her and an extra £3000 could easily disappear too…!!! A massive £27,500 in total!!!!

Time for a serious and sensible chat with the Dealer Principle about bike values. Even dear old Harls, who now is, a bit like me, viewed as a “Classic” is now appreciating in value!

Do I need to sell either bike? – No.
Do I want to sell either bike? – No.

What the hell have I been thinking about???

So I did what any sensible Harley rider should do and ordered a set of heated grips and a new LED “Daymaker” headlamp for Harls! The grips for a bit of added comfort and the nice bright headlamp for a bit of added safety.

The Dealership fitted the grips a week or so back, as previously reported, I got around to fitting the headlamp yesterday.

All was good until, after a nice test ride, I decided to give the headlamp mounting bolt an extra bit of torque and the distinctly heard something tear in my right shoulder! I dropped the wrench like I had been hit by an electric cattle prod and am now sitting writing this with my arm in a sling and stoked up on pain-killers and anti-inflammatories!!!

Oh the joys of getting older!!!

Catch you soon,
Dookes

Back In The Dealership

I have a problem, it’s pretty persistent and can flare up without warning…

It frequently happens when i walk into a Harley Davidson Dealership and usually involves parting with substantial sums of cash!

A week ago I was sitting here in Plymouth Harley Davidson, waiting for Hettie’s service to be completed thinking how nice it was riding in with her heated grips keeping my hands warm…and the thought occurred to me, “Why haven’t I ever had heated grips fitted to Harls?”

Good question Dookes…and to be honest, it has never really occurred to me in the past to fit them!

Well, that didn’t seem like a very good excuse not to have them…so i ordered a set and here I am waiting for them to be fitted! Call it my 20th Anniversary present to her!

One of the old grips, I’ve been to a lot of places holding onto those!

It’s just a shame that it’s such a crap day, weather-wise, to ride a motorcycle!
There’s reasonably heavy, no, read monsoon, rain, gusty winds, lots of spray and the roads are a slippery as hell!…Welcome to Cornwall and Devon in March!!

I’m valiantly trying, successfully so far, not to spend any more money. I am though looking forward to enjoying the new heated grips on the way home! Not that I froze on the way here, i have my heated under-jacket and gloves with me, I’ll just be a little bit more comfortable…

Nice new shiny heated grips!

Catch you soon,

Dookes

Shiny Things and the Smell of Rubber

It’s the time of year that my two lovely Harley Davidson motorcycles have their annual service. Normally, as part of the service plan I have, they get collected by the Plymouth Harley dealership and delivered back all serviced and nicely clean. That happened with Harls a few weeks back, but unfortunately not for Hettie, I’ve had to ride her to the dealership….!

Now this isn’t really an issue, I love riding my bikes even if just lately i haven’t had much time to do so, unfortunately though, this morning dawned a bit damp and soggy…oh well, suck it up and get on with it Dookes! Regular blogonaughts will know that I’m certainly not a fair weather rider, just that given the choice I’d rather avoid the wet stuff especially when the ambient temperatures are a bit on the low side. Tyres can take an age to warm up this time of year and the added fun of mud, low sun, slippery roads and this morning a liberal coating of diesel oil on a particularly tight corner made for an “interesting” 45 miles from Dookes H.Q. to Plymouth.

So here I am relaxing in the showroom of Plymouth Harley Davidson, surrounded by lots of shiny things and with the smell of rubber from new tyres, whilst Hettie gets the best attention of a Harley Davidson Technician.

I’m also sitting here in a state of shock.

Shock induced by how expensive a new Harley is these days!

There are currently 67 bikes here in the showroom and if I apply a, probably low, average price of £20,000 i calculate that I am surrounded by £1.4million worth of Harley Davidsons!

I’m not sure if that is cool….or scary!!!

Over the last few months I had been contemplating just becoming a “One Bike” rider, possibly parting with Hettie, but I’ve been wavering. This morning has firmly buried that idea, Hettie stays!!! A new Hettie, in basic form would cost me in excess of £24,300 on the road; if I then add on all the little bells and whistles that i’ve put on her it would push the new price to over £25,000!!

Hettie….this girl’s going nowhere!!!

That’s £7000 more than I paid for her!!!!…….Ho hum, it’s only money!!!

Now I must relax and breath deeply, I love the smell of a motorcycle dealership showroom!!

Catch you soon,
Dookes

PS I really need to check Hettie’s agreed insured value….

Through Others Eyes (Showing AGMA around)

OK, Dookes is bad…no posts for ages, again!
No excuses, other than life stuff constantly getting in the way…

Over the years, blogging has given me many great experiences and the opportunity to make many “on-line” friends. Some I communicate with on a regular basis, though few as much as the legendary AGMA, that’s “Ageing Gracefully My Ass” in case you were wondering!

It was an absolute delight earlier this year to hear from AGMA and learn that she and husband “Hubs” had decided to come visit Cornwall as part of one of her famous round Europe dashes! Would Dookes be available to show them around his part of Cornwall?
You bet I would!

Regular blogonaughts will know that Dookes lives in the far South West of the United Kingdom in the fair Duchy of Cornwall; a rocky, windswept, at times sunny, but ruggedly always beautiful place to live!

Sometimes though, just to keep things in perspective, you need to look at it through other’s eyes and realise just how lucky you are to live here!

Amongst places that AGMA wanted to visit was Tintagel Castle the world famous legendary birth place of King Arthur; yes him of Round Table fame!

Mrs Dookes and I have a bit of history with Tintagel so it was a pleasure to show AGMA and Hubs around the place and tell them of it’s history and legends.

The medieval ruins of Tintagel Castle

To stand on Tintagel’s island mount and look out at the wild Atlantic Ocean with AGMA made me so very grateful to live here and call this land home.

I’m pleased AGMA and Hubs enjoyed their holiday in Cornwall, we were delighted to meet them, show them around and welcome them, albeit briefly, into our lives.
We hope to see them again before too much longer!

Oh yes, before I forget. AGMA was insistent that she met my beloved Harls…no problem, you weren’t going to leave without saying “Hi” to her!

Catch you soon,

Dookes

Bike Nights and Near Normality

The world remains strange, though there are the beginnings of green shoots of normality slowly starting to emerge.

Here in Cornwall, as one of the most popular UK tourist destination areas, we are used to visitors during the summer months, but nothing like the invasion that we are experiencing this year! The prime driver of this is the continuing restrictions that the UK government have placed on all but essential foreign travel, as a result most people who would normally holiday abroad have swarmed to popular UK hot spots….and don’t we know it!

Local journeys are on average taking twice as long as normal. Narrow roads are choked with motor-homes, caravans and bewildered drivers who seemingly are unable to reverse when faced with a large tractor hauling silage; yes there is more to Cornwall than just the beaches!

The great thing is, with a motorcycle and a bit of local knowledge, you can avoid most of the holiday making madness!

Not very far from Dookes H.Q. on the stunningly beautiful north coast of Cornwall, lies the small town of Bude. Originally a harbour and fishing village, like many small coastal towns it developed into a holiday resort in the 1800’s and with the arrival of the railway in 1879 became a firm favourite of affluent Victorians.

Today the railway is gone, closed in 1966. The harbour just a shadow of it’s former glory. As a holiday destination Bude is no longer on the “must do” list for visitors to Cornwall, but it still retains a certain charm and in places, elegance.

Each Wednesday evening through the summer Bude hosts “Bike Nights” when motorcyclists of all sorts gather on the quay to drink coffee, eat donuts, hang out together and talk motorbikes in a relaxed atmosphere.

It’s great fun to see the holiday-makers giving us a wide berth; if they looked closely though, they’d notice that most of us are drawing our pensions!

It’s also great fun to have an evening out with motorcycle mates, plus a nice ride there and a nice ride back, you can’t beat it!

Pop down and see us if you are in Bude on a sunny Wednesday evening in the summer.

Catch you soon,

Dookes