Taking A Breather

Good afternoon from Corbières in South West France! Herewith a quick update, full report, with pics later.

Harley and I are currently enjoying a few minutes rest after quite an exciting day so far. Temperatures back in the high twenties, which is nice, but tends to make for a smelly biker! Interesting conditions climbing the pass out of Andorra, first rain, next rain and mist, finally rain sleet and mist! Oh yes temperatures down to zero and just to add to the fun diesel oil all over the hairpins…..good fun indeed!

Thanks for the messages, catch you all later!

Looking South and East, where we are heading the sky looks very dark storms forecast as well! Here goes then!

“Give me a wheel of oaken wood, a rein of polished leather, a heavy horse and a tumbling sky, brewing heavy weather…..”

Dookes

 

 

Mañana

Tomorrow we head into La Belle France and I can hardly wait!

The weather looks a bit mixed, which is a shame, but hey it’s been pretty ok up until now, so no complaints.

Target for tomorrow is the Camargue, at the mouth of the Rhône. A few mountain passes to start, then loop down to the Mediterranean and a fast (ish) sprint along to Montpellier.

Should be cool, you up for it?

Good, let’s ride!

“They wanted me to be respected as a doctor or a lawyer man…. but I had other plans!”

Dookes

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Food Report

To keep my Triumph Tiger riding mate happy, here is tonight’s food report!

Entrée; Salade avec rognons gibiers. Game kidney salad.

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Le plat; Cabillaud filet Catalan, avec pommes rôti et brocoli. Cod with Catalan sauce.

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It’s a long way to the top if you wanna rock and roll!

Dookes

Part Man, Part Troll.

There I was this morning in the hotel car park getting Harley ready for the road. When a geezer, looking like the Spanish version of the English comedian Bill Bailey appeared.

This is Bill.

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“Hola!” He says, followed by “Hello, I speak some English!”
“Hola,” I reply.
“Your bike,” he continues, “is ‘ow you say, Cool as f**k!”
“Thank you!” I respond.

Obviously a man of taste!

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I think so too my friend, I think so too!

“Wheels, spinin’ round my brain, driving you insane,
Wheels, flyin’ down the road, ready to explode.”

Dookes

Hot Stuff!

Phew, what scorcher today has been!

Harley and I got away from Tudela at 09:30 and promptly found heavy traffic for nearly twenty miles until we got onto the Autopista, then we virtually had the road to ourselves! The sun was pretty unforgiving, even at that time of the morning and the temperature was already well into the mid twenties Celsius. The landscape remained quite parched, though nowhere near as arid as our desert exploits saw last evening. We skirted Zarragoza, a large mess in Ebro valley. I know it has nice parts, but the industrial sprawl that has surrounded the old city kinda spoils it for me. The regional names around those parts always seem quite romantic to me; Navarra, Aragon (where Catherine, Henry VIII’s first wife came from) and then Catalonia. The Autopista is a toll road, not cheap, but sure gets you there quicker than the National Routes. I grabbed this quick shot at a toll booth to show the typical scenery that went on for miles and miles!

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We cruised into Llieda, for fuel and a visit to the Harley Davidson Dealership where we were made very welcome….all of the staff were ladies. Excellente! The cathedral citadel towers above the old town.

20140617-202537-73537240.jpgWhilst the city park looked cool and inviting through the imposing gates.

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One of the many things I love about my Harley is the way she enables me to engage with complete strangers. By the park gates was just such an example, a group of teenagers gathered around admiring her and I soon realised by their use of signing that they were deaf. One of the lads indicated to me to blip the throttle and when I duly obliged, great merriment ensued, the lad indicated to me that they could feel the vibrations in their stomachs! Try sitting on her for 200+ miles pal, you’ll know what vibration is then! Well actually no, she doesn’t vibrate much at all really, but I digress. Others rushed to the back of Harley to put their hands in the exhaust as it exploded from the pipes, never have I seen such happiness gained from feeling the air vibrate in such a way! After a few minutes of such goofing about, I had to say farewell to our new friends and hit the road. We turned the corner out of sight and stopped, so I could wipe a tear away. That bloody motorbike frequently has a way of putting life into perspective for me and reminding me of how lucky I am for so many things! It’s just one of the reasons that I love her so much, got tears in my eyes again thinking about that moment…
After Llieda, we turned north and started the slow climb to the Pyrenees. I was looking forward to getting some altitude and hopefully cooler air. The land soon began to grow towards the sky and the valleys narrowed as we found harder geology.
Halfway it was time for lunch, fresh apricots and peaches from a roadside stall. Why can’t we have stuff like this in the UK…? Oh yes, cos it’s too bleeding cold and wet! Nice view though.

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After a bit more climbing we arrived in the Principality of Andorra and clocked up another country that Harley has graced, that’s six so far! Naturally we just had to visit the H-D dealership, which is not only one of the newest in Europe but probably the most exclusive…until one opens in Monaco!
Now this place, Andorra, is something else…
It’s a bit of an anachronism, the place that the Moors never got around to grabbing when they took over Spain and subsequently no-one else has bothered with! It’s supposed to be a tax haven and also cos it’s tax free a shoppers paradise…well not exactly! Looking at the dealer tee shirt that I bought in Llieda it was €25 before tax, but here in Andorra the same shirt was €27, that’s two bucks more expensive in real terms!!!!! Get this too, Andorra ain’t even in the EU, let alone the Euro zone, but hey any cash will do! The drivers gain my “Most bonkers in Europe” award, the blanket speed limit is 50kph, but now and again there is a 200metre stretch of 60kph, just watch ’em go! That’s when the driver of a Porsche 4WD found out a Harley goes faster, just had to be done! Bizarrely, the fastest stretch of road in Andorra is in the Twin Valleys Tunnel at 80kph, I dunno why either…! Gotta say that I’m not over struck with Andorra, a mate says it’s good for skiing but apart from the highest capital city in Europe I don’t think it’s got that much to offer, give me the Alps any day!
The view out of my room.

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Catch ya later!

“Riding down the highway, stoppin’ in the byways, playin’ rock and roll.”

Dookes

In memory of Piran, an old git, but a true friend!
Yesterday don’t matter when it’s gone.

An Apology!

Hello people.

I am having real trouble posting to the blog. Last night I thought it was the internet speed on board the ship….tonight I’m not so sure. The folks at WordPress have made some “improvements” to the App and site, so good that loads of my writing has just disappeared and photos won’t load!

I am very sorry if you are disappointed by this, but it ain’t half as much as I am!

I will endeavour to persevere!

Dookes

Desert Exploration

imageimageimageimageimageYes, honestly, a real desert…

Right, cards on the table. This trip does not have a theme like many of my other adventures. Well OK, it is about the pure unbridled pleasure of riding my beloved Harley, but we are not chasing fictional spies or following in the historical footsteps of anyone. The trip doesn’t even have a name, though I am open to suggestions! There are, however, one to two places that we are going that I have long had on the old Dookes radar. Tonight the destination was the Bardenas Reales Natural Park.

This is an extensive semi-desert unpopulated area of nearly 42,000 hectares in the South East of Navarra. It has a unique landscape with high cabezos cliffs, raised plateaus, hidden ravines and eroded land forms matched by few places on earth. There are three main areas but tonight we only had time to head for the most spectacular, La Bardena Blanca.

The landscape is jaw dropping amazing. It’s evolution began about 20 million years ago when the depression was marsh and inland sea. Geological changes then caused the land to drain to the north and further shifting of the rocks brought about a tilt that reversed the flow of the Rio Ebro to drain into the Mediterranean. The alluvial deposits became soft mudstones with sandstones capping them. Over time, weathering has attacked the landscape wearing the mudstones and silts away quicker than the sandstone and leaving behind a spectacular and changing scenery. The area receives minimal rainfall and is officially Europes largest desert.

The rock formations are amazing, best of all is Cabezo de Castildetierra which is a fragile finger pointing skywards and literally in the middle of nowhere! Access to the park is via gravel tracks, which certainly  puts off many visitors and I must admit that under normal circumstances I would not have dreamed of taking Harley off Tarmac, but you don’t get to drive in a desert everyday! So….off we went, slowly, very slowly!  You can see from the pictures that Harley certainly got the dust in her toes and by the time we got back on real roads certainly looked a tad weathered! The whole place has a touch so Area 51 about it, engendered by the presence of a large military zone complete with barbed wire sentry towers and signs basically telling you to go away….I didn’t see any UFO’s though!

Sorry that the photos are in one block, but at least I got them posted! If the photos remind you of anything, well, think Spagetti Western and you’ll be spot on as many of them were filmed around these parts. As Clint once said “With the Rojos on one side and the Baxters on the other, a man could make money here…..”

“On a dark desert highway, cool wind in my hair”

Catch you all later, off to the High Sierras, in cowboy speak, next!

Dookes

 

Hola Espania!


Well, my wish for no rain in Spain was granted! Lovely warm weather saw us into Santander just after midday. The beaches were golden whilst the hills beyond looked brooding with high cloud. Unfortunately Harley and I with over a hundred other motorbikes were stuck on the lower vehicle deck for over forty five minutes whilst all of the other vehicles were disembarked! It was like a sauna, only with motorbikes in there with you as well, not pleasant!

Once we were released, the Spanish authorities could not have assisted more and we all flew through passport control and customs without any further hold up. Harley and I hit the Cantabrian Autopista and sped eastwards. Traffic was ok, a little busy round Bilbao but soon thin to almost nothing on the AP68 as we headed towards the red soils of Rioja and the Ebro valley. The Region of Rioja is rightly famous for its splendid red wines, made largely from the tempranillo grape and acres of vines can be seen stretching away for miles. Now I have seen quite a few wine producing areas around the place, but Rioja takes the prize for the sheer scale of the cultivation. The vines are small, but boy are there a lot of them!

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The road was quite simply fantastic, lots of European cash has been invested in the Spanish transport network and the roads have got to be amongst the best anywhere, a real joy to ride.

“I’m just glad to be here, happy to be alive.”

Dookes

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All At Sea

It’s a beautiful morning in the Bay of Biscay!

We are about three hours steaming from our destination, Santander, and the weather could not be nicer. Super dinner last night and then a good sleep over a near glass smooth sea. Hope Harley is OK down on the lower vehicle deck!

After we disembark we will head South East about 200 miles to Tudela, in Navarra, which is situated on the banks of the mighty Rio Ebro the longest river in Spain. Hopefully the weather will stay with us, cos it would be the first time that I have ever arrived in Spain without rain falling!

Broadband speeds on board are a bit slow so please excuse the lack of photos!

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…and then blow me it worked!

I’m off to enjoy breakfast!

Dookes

Cast Off!

Well here we are again on my favourite ship in the Brittany Ferries fleet, the MV Pont Aven. I’ve written all the statistics about her before, so if you really want the details either look back at previous posts, way back, or go Google! Anyway, she’s more cruise liner than ferry and definitely more Pullman than tourist. She’s the Flag-Ship of the BF fleet and I love her!

The ship is very busy today, being outside the school holidays the clientele are definitely, shall we say more “mature”! Let’s put it this way, most of them make me feel pretty young….! By the time we were manoeuvring out of port all of the deck chairs were nabbed and rearranged into tight defensive enclaves that reminded me of the film ‘Zulu’!

Like I hoped, the run to the port was lovely and sunny. Harley purred along contentedly, like me probably happy to be on the move, whilst I got used to riding her fully loaded up. It’s a funny thing how different she handles when all the gear is strapped to her, but after about twenty miles it seems normal.

As we passed through Plymouth I mused how glad I was to often set sail from that port. Not because I either have any affection nor wish any ill on the place, it’s just that you know as you ride to the port that anywhere else is going to be better! I can hear the knives being sharpened in City Hall as I type! Let’s put it this way, Plymouth certainly has it’s nice parts; The Hoe, The Barbican and erm…? Yeah, it’s a biggish city, sea port, naval base, transport hub (or was until the airport was closed!) and shopping centre, but it ain’t exactly up there with London, Chicago, Barcelona or Rome! What is does have going for it, both for me and probably millions of others, is that is the springboard to adventure and has been for hundreds of years. It’s the place that the Pilgrim Fathers sailed from to the ‘New World’, it vies with Portsmouth to be known as the home of the Royal Navy and was formerly the last stop, via tender, for the great Ocean Liners as they fought for the Blue Ribband of the North Atlantic. Quite a pedigree and to be honest, it’s still doing great business today. Well done Plymouth!

Now, if only your football team wasn’t so bad…..!

“There’s a feeling I get when I look to the west and my spirit is calling for leaving.”

Dookes

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