Warm Sunshine

Hello people.

It’s an absolutely beautiful morning here in Piedmont, northern Italy. Warm sunshine, just had breakfast on the terrace…it’s going to be a hot one!

B&B is very nice, set in lovely grounds that are well tended, charming owners who speak as much English as I do Italian, which ain’t a great deal, but hey it works!

Breakfast was absolutely full of sugar, brioche type breads, biscuits and jams and coffee as only the Italians can make. So I’m now totally wired for the day ahead!

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Have a good day everyone. Arrivederci!

Like a loaded gun, chasing shadows on the run…

Dookes

Goldfinger: Day 4 or This Never Happened to the Other Fella!

OK, so this was originally going to be a simple report about how I have found the locations used in the 1964/5 Bond film “Goldfinger”….would that it was that simple!

This morning the central part of Switzerland was wet, very, very wet and cold too. Got on the road after a good rest in Zweisimmen, lovely hotel to boot, Sonegg Hotel Garni. It’s just reopened after a top to bottom rebuild and is run by a delightful and attentive young family who are determined to look after their guests the best they can, which is very well indeed, very comfortable room, beautifully clean, good breakfast, excellent coffee. Highly recommended, Harley even got a garage rest in too!

The run down the Simme valley was interesting, those lovely smooth Swiss roads are a tad tricky in the wet!
Quick run along the Autoroute next to Lake Thun and into Interlaken, I really wish I had some nice photos to show you, but nice it was not!

I popped into Interlaken to see if had changed much since last time I was there, about 40 years ago…not really, still a bit tacky and up-market at the same time, a peculiarly strange trait that some places seem to pull off!

Whilst there I thought it would be a good idea to put my rain suit on, cos normally it works by getting me too hot and scaring the rain away, today it failed on both counts…more rain and I got cold!

Still heading East we passed Lake Brienz, there were about five tunnels I think, really warm and humid inside causing instant visor mist up, one tunnel even had it’s own cloud of fog in the middle, weird.

After Brienz we swung South and started the climb towards the Grimsel Pass.

The weather started to get worse and colder, as we climbed we entered into the zone where snow was still laying by the road, but then there was snow in the air as well! Then visibility came down even more as mist joined in the party! My visor was covered in sticky snow, but if I opened it the stuff was like sand being thrown in my eyes.

Just as I thought about trying to find somewhere to stop and turn around, I came up behind a transit van belonging to a local business, he was going on and I figured he knew the road, so I decided to tough it out and follow him! It soon felt like a pretty stupid decision as the snow got much, much, worse and the wind was gusting savagely.

I’m normally in my element in the mountains, but then I’m normally on foot and not having to nurse a third of a tonne Harley Davidson who definitely was not in her element! I was, to be, honest bricking it!

Eventually we got to the top of the pass, 2165m (7106 ft), and had a breather. The last quarter of a mile had been grim, in places the wet snow was about four inches deep and I had been riding with feet down as outriggers! At the pass the road swings around the mountain and is comparatively sheltered, it was wet and there was some snow, but nothing like what we had just been through.

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Spot the snow stuck on Harley’s screen!

Dropping down the zigzags to Gletch was fun as well, mighty slippery in places, but OK. This it what it looks like on a fine day, however I wouldn’t know cos I couldn’t see a thing!

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I paused for breath in Gletch and had a think what to do. From there I could see most of the way up the Furka Pass, should I risk it? I quick word with couple of Belgian bikers settled it, if they could do it, so could I after what we had just dealt with! So up we went and it was OK as well. True there was a lot of snow next to the road and it was cold, but by the top I felt pretty good about things.

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Then blow me, what should drive up and park next to Harley?
Only a bloody Aston Martin, with British plates on it, that’s what!

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Wrong model, wrong colour….but an Aston Martin on the Furka Pass!!!!!!!
Cue Bond music please Moneypenny!
The car was driven by a super couple from Scotland, er wasn’t Bond from Scotland too?
They were well up on Goldfinger, hence why they were there!
I’m sure he called her M, or was it Emma? Dodgy hearing these days!
Love that anticline in the rocks behind as well…

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The run down to Realp and Andermatt was fairly grim. Unfortunately two locations from the film were enveloped by cloud, I’ll do a separate post with some comparisons in due course, as time is pushing on and I’m pretty knack’d right now!

Anyway, after the Bond excitement Harley and I pushed on to our last Pass of the day the legendary Simplon on the way to the Swiss/Italian border. By Oberwald the weather had got much better, in Brig it was getting warmer and at the Pass the rain suit came off!

20130624-232009.jpgSimplon Viaduct, on the way up.

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20130624-232419.jpgThe road to Italy.

20130624-232554.jpgStone Eagle guarding the pass.

Tonight I am in Domodossola, Italy. It’s now 23:30hrs local time and the thermometer is reading 23.4 degrees…I’ve just about warmed up!

Oh let the sun beat down upon my face, stars to fill my dreams….

Good night.

Dookes

Sometimes things get to you!

Sorry if my posts yesterday were a bit glum and not up to the usual light banter, but there were a few things that took the edge off the day.

Firstly the sad news that one of our Plymouth UK Chapter members, Andy Marriott ( Transplant Andy) passed away on Friday. Andy had not been well for a long time, but it still kicks you in the pants. My thoughts are with his wife and family.

Next up, yesterday, just before Evian les Bains I witnessed a small dog getting hit by a car, he was hurt but not killed, car driver did not stop. Plenty of others did though, which was good.

Later on in a village near Gstaad, I saw a cat run out into the road and get run over by another car, again the driver did not stop. I pulled over and picked up the cat and carried it to the side of the road where it died. Couldn’t find the owner, but it was a lovely big black and white cat in good health and with a collar on. Somebody loved that cat.

Having animals of our own, it sort of got to me.

So there you go, that’s why.

Dookes

Goldfinger: Day 3 Part Two

Hello my faithful bloganaughts and a very good evening from Zweisimmen in the Bernese Oberland mountains of Switzerland.
This is the view from my hotel balcony, nice eh?

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First off, let’s get down to Bond business. Did he do it as Fleming wrote? I doubt it.
Bond had watched his quarry eat a picnic then head off along the N.79 to Macon. Our boy gets to the eastern outskirts of Macon at 13:00hrs, the traffic was busy and he needed to fill up and check the water and oil.
He follows Goldfinger over the river into St Laurent, then rams Tilly Masterson’s Triumph. After a suitable exchange about blame, Bond is coerced to take the girl to Geneva, but she is dispatched to buy lunch! “A quarter of an hour later they were on their way”.

The intimation is made that it will take them two hours to the Swiss city, it took me three and I cut the corner at Bourg en Bresse, never mind it’s still a good read!

Macon was lovely this morning, it’s quite a mixed place some parts are not so good, but the old town is great and very French, if you get the drift.
The Hotel de Ville.

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This is the bridge that Bond and Goldfinger use to cross the Saône, one of the great rivers of France.

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From Bourg, Harley and I nosed off towards the Jura mountains and crossed the Gorges de L’Ain at Pont de Serrieres.

20130623-210626.jpg The road steadily climbs into the limestone scenery, which is made up of the same kind of oolitic limestone rock that forms the Cotswold Hills. Jurassic period of geological history gets it’s name from the Jura Mountains, where the rock was first identified; Jura is actually an old Celtic word meaning “wooded” and they certainly are that!

Also in the Jura we came across Fort de L’Écluse an amazing fortress built on two separate levels to protect France from invasion via the Rhone gorge by the warlike Swiss! It was near here that Bond stopped for lunch with Tilly.

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As we neared the Swiss border we departed from Bond’s route, the book takes him into Geneva and then onto Coppet where he discovers Goldfinger’s factory…we’ll catch up with Jimmy tomorrow; today we headed for Evian les Bains, where the famous mineral water comes from, on the shores of Lac Leman (that’s Lake Geneva in English).
Gotta say I was pretty under impressed with Evian; it’s like an upmarket Blackpool that doesn’t know what to spend it’s money on, except blue rinses and fake tans!
The local accent is also pretty hard to understand too, but the lake …… blimey we’ve just ridden to Lac Leman, that’s awesome! So is the lake.

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The road from Evian to the Swiss border was less than impressive and well past it’s sell by date. Then, bingo, pass through the border gate and there’s Swiss efficiency for you, the road becomes lovely and smooth, like a bar of their chocolate!

I had to drop into Montreux and say hello to an old friend, Freddy Mercury late of the band Queen, I can’t believe it is nearly 24 years since he died. He had a home in Montreaux and after his death a bronze statue was sited on the shores of the lake in memory of him. The music of Queen became synonymous with innovation, slick production, constant surprises and good old rock and roll. I can still remember the awe that I felt when Bohemian Rhapsody was first released! Freddie was the front man to measure all others against and yes, his lifestyle was instrumental in his demise, but a world without Freddie would have been much less colourful and fun! So, you great pretender, I salute you and say thanks for the music and the memories.

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Leaving Montreux we immediately started climbing, lovely bends everywhere on the way to Col Des Mosses, 1445m (4741ft).

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Very…hmm, Heidi?

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From there it was but a short trundle to Zweisimmen at 945m.

Todays milage 201; yesterday’s, cos I forgot to post it was 346. The trip total so far is 892.

Back on the Bond trail tomorrow, film version this time!

For I must be travelling on now, cos there’s to many places I gotta see.

Dookes

Goldfinger: Day 3

OK hands up, I’ve been a bit tardy with the references to our old mate James Bond.

The film is wonderfully vague, but in the book JB follows Goldfinger from Orléans to Nevers, then south to Moulins, here they hang a left on the N79 towards Macon.

Now Ian Fleming must have been in dream world when he wrote that bit, because the times are impossible to do even today, let alone in 1959 when the book was first published. The book tells us that JB watches Goldfinger eat a picnic lunch at 13:00, then Bond recovers a gold bar that Goldfinger hides by the road, JB follows Goldfinger to Macon, buys lunch for himself, runs into Tilly Masterson’s car, picks her up, motors on towards Switzerland and has lunch himself at the pass before the Swiss boarder! His Aston must have been fitted with warp drive!

Well today, we are pretty much faithfully following that route from Macon. Hold on tight and we will find out how long it takes!

Saddle up baby, ride on next to me.

Dookes

Goldfinger: Day 2

Good evening everyone from a delightfully warm and dry Macon. Harley and I have just enjoyed a super day romping westwards across France.
The first 120 miles were largely on Autoroutes, not ideal, but hey it munches miles fairly quickly and Harley is just the job when it comes to cruising.
I’ve got to say, that regardless of my comments about Parisien drivers earlier, one of the many things I like about France is the standard of driving that one generally encounters; it’s pretty good! I really feel that it generally knocks spots off the appalling standards one frequently sees back home. For example, lane discipline on dual carriageways and motorways; in the UK lane hogging has now got so bad that a new law has just been passed to try to deal with the problem of the “Middle Lane Owners Club” and the “I’m driving in Lane 2 Because I’m far Too Important/Fast/Lazy to Pull Over Into Lane 1 Club”. Here in France the only time you see a vehicle in lanes 2 or 3 is when they are actually overtaking; oh sorry I forgot, or when an ignorant Brit in an Audi is cruising ingoring everyone else and is too pig stupid to move over, like I saw earlier! Rant over!

So, back to the trip. Chinon to Bourges, autoroute. Then D976 to Nevers. The road passes by Avord Airbase, but some very grumpy looking armed guards persuaded me not to take any photos, but in the nearby village I found this old Mirage IIIB on display.

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At La Grenouille the Canal Lateral-Loire crosses the River Allier.

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Harley and I then popped into Magny Cours Circuit for a nose around. There was a track day in progress for sport bike types but otherwise it all looked like a prisoner of war camp and felt about as welcoming. James Hunt was right, it is just about as far from anywhere that you can get in France!
We took the D978 and enjoyed a super ride through hills and pine forests of the Morvan National Park. The hairpins entering Chateau-Chinon were delightful, shame about the rest of the town though!
Autun is a fascinating place, quite busy with modern, ugly, French apartment blocks rubbing up alongside Roman ruins. There is also a delightful medieval quarter and an impressive cathedral as well. As an example, here is the Roman Amphitheatre, into which the cunning French have put a football pitch! Brilliant, I love it! Perhaps the Romans invented football as well?

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The view over the town.

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Just outside Autun is a real oddity, the remains of what is thought to be a 1st Century Pyramid. What purpose it actually served seems to be subject to some debate, there have been burials found nearby but nothing in the edifice itself. Unfortunately there’s not that much left, as most of the stone has been nicked by the resourceful locals who have used it as a help yourself quarry over the centuries. Still looks pretty awesome to me though!

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Next up was Le Creusot and something I have wanted to see for a long time. Many of you know that a bit of industrial archeology is always guaranteed to get me going, especially when powered by steam. So get a load of this baby!

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It’s a 100tonne steam hammer, last used about 1930 and now mounted on a traffic island on the entry to the town. By 100t, that’s not what it weighs…that’s the force that it could pound metal with! It has a five meter drop on the hammer part as well; it is said that a skilled operator could shell nuts with it, such was the control that was available. I love it! This whole area was once alive with iron works and coal mines, now nothing except a few museum pieces…Funny thing is, I once studied this area as part of my Geography A level; bit of a bugger that I didn’t come here when I was doing it, cos it makes it real and I would have been able to relate much better. Kids should go see the places that they are studying, not just watch videos or read books.
Anyway, we slipped nicely into Bourgogne, Burgundy to the Brits. Wow, it’s lovely! That’s all, lovely and mellow and lush and nice! This is Chateau Birze Le Chatel.

20130622-223836.jpg Harley liked it too!

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Tonight’s billet is Chambres D’Hôtes Clos de Flace, just outside Macon.
Very nice, very traditional French and with lovely owners. Then blow me, along rolls a couple from Ebbw Vale…I ask you, South Wales! Need my mate Greg here, sorry, “year”, to translate valley speak tidy like! Je peux faire face à la langue Francais!

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That’s it for today, you up for it tomorrow? Good, breakfast at eight then.

The roar of the engine I love that sound.
Dookes

Pit Stop

Quick splash and dash for both Harley and I at Aire de Romorantin, in the Cher region and on the A85 Autoroute.
Fair morning, traffic OK bar a few crazy Parisiens on weekend getaways!
Usual motorway rip off price for fuel, that’s international as well….

Catch you all later.

Ride like the wind, runnin’ from the rainbows.

Dookes

Lest We Forget

OK, time to be serious.

During the build up to D Day, 6th June 1944, the Royal Air Force was called upon to provide tactical photographs of Northern France. These photos were to monitor German troop movements, defences and strategic targets vital to the success of the mission to liberate Europe from Nazi occupation and tyranny.
Only aircrews of the highest calibre and skill flew these incredibly dangerous missions, which demanded the highest precision. The aircraft were totally unarmed and often had all armour protection removed as well, speed and experience being the only protection. Additionally, most missions were also flow during daylight hours as night photographs did not contain sufficient detail.
Various types of aircraft were utilised at different times, principle were super fast versions of the famous Supermarine Spitfire, but by 1944 the fastest plane in the sky was the De Havilland Mosquito. Affectionately known as “The Wooden Wonder” or just “Mossie”. This incredible aircraft was built using composite layers of lightweight types of wood and powered by two supercharged Rolls Royce Merlin engines, giving a top speed of just over 400mph.

20130621-215841.jpgThis is wartime photograph of a Photo Reconnaissance Mossie.
On the 5th June 1944, MM243, a PR Mossie Mk IX of 140 Squadron RAF, set out in daylight to photograph German defences in the Le Mans area.

It never returned.

Near the target it was shot down by accurate anti-aircraft artillery and crashed near the town of Bauge. Both crewmen died.

They were Flying Officer Jesse Bertram Reynolds (Pilot), Flight Sergeant Franck Earnest Brown (Navigator).

Jesse was 26, Franck 21.

Jesse had flown 16 previous photo recon missions, Franck 28.

They are buried in adjacent graves in Bauge Cemetery.

At the location where their aircraft crashed there is a simple memorial and plaque to their memory, maintained by the local community.
Today, I detoured to visit the site, pay my respects and leave a poppy cross.

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20130621-221639.jpg The memorial lies on the edge of a small wood and it is difficult to imagine what the scene must have been like when the Mosquito crashed.
The place is strangely tranquil, birds were joyfully singing and the whole area had an almost ethereal feel. I’m not very religious these days, but there was definitely a presence to be felt, a warm peaceful presence.

I think that the simple inscription sums it up well, translated it says;
“They have given their lives for our freedom”.

The rest of this road trip and the freedom it encapsulates, is dedicated to Jesse and Franck.

We will remember them.