The Next Trip: A Pilgrimage

Some weeks ago I promised that I would soon be giving you all details of the road trip. I have to apologise for the delay in getting this posted, but let me now tell you what I have planned. First though, a short history lesson.

This year sees the centenary of the start of the First World War and it seemed a good time to make good on a promise that I made to myself many years ago, to visit the scene of one of the most terrible battles in the infamous history of human conflict; The Somme. This was a battle fought by the armies of the British and French Empires against Germany, it took place between July and November 1916 in the basin of the River Somme in North Eastern France. The battle was the bloodiest in World War One and indeed human history, with more than One Million men wounded or killed. The battle is historically notable for the debut of tanks and the use of air power. On the first day of the battle, 1st July 1916, the British Fourth Army lost 57,470 men alone. Even more sobering is that 72,191 British empire troops who died in the battle have no known grave.

The static trench warfare conditions endured by the soldiers of both sides during the conflict were truly horrific; they lived and died knee-deep in mud and fetid water, the smell of rotting bodies in the air, rats and lice everywhere. The constant threat from artillery shells, poison gas, snipers and of course the ubiquitous machine gun was a way of life on the front line. The rapid development of technology and efficiency in the industrial revolution was turned towards new and terrible weaponry, this truly was an industrial war.

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So what has this got to do with motorbike road trips? Well, not much really, except that my two Grandfathers were there and I have promised myself that one day I too would go to The Somme and walk amongst the spirits of their comrades that they left behind, call it my pilgrimage.

Let me tell you a little about those two young men who went off to war nearly a hundred years ago.

William was quite a tall chap fairly heavily built and an engineer, ideally suited to working with the new mechanised track laying tractors that hauled the massive 9.2 inch howitzers of the Royal Garrison Artillery. IMG_0271Charles was also pretty tall, but more slightly built, an accomplished horseman who found himself posted to the Royal Field Artillery pulling 13 pounder guns into action on horseback and who, on one occasion, would have his horse shot dead underneath him as they rode into battle.IMG_0282The amazing thing is that history has shown that they were only about a mile away from each other on the Somme Front line during that terrible battle. Just two ordinary soldiers, yet, like so many others, extraordinary men caught in one of history’s saddest episodes.

The fact that I am here writing this is proof that they both survived. William was later wounded in the head with shrapnel, splinters of which remained embedded in his body as a permanent reminder; whilst Charles was caught in a poison gas attack that left him suffering from poor health for the rest of his life.

On the way to The Somme, I have to call in at Banneville War Cemetery near Caen. It is here that Mrs Dookes Grandfather is buried. Another William who also served with the artillery, he was killed shortly after D-Day in 1944 whilst fighting to liberate France from Nazi occupation, he was just 26 years old. I feel it is only right that I call and pay my respects.

So that’s the outline of the trip. Just for a change Harley and I are having an escort, my oldest mate, “Vifferman” and his ‘Onda VFR. We are catching the ferry to Brittany on Thursday 3rd April and would love you along for the ride. We’ll travel through Normandy on our way to the town of Albert and the Somme. Promise that it won’t all be heavy war stuff, cos those guys fought and died to enable us to enjoy freedom and that’s just what we are gonna do! Catch ya soon.

Don’t stop thinking about tomorrow, it’ll soon be here.

Dookes

 

Le Tour – A Guilty Pleasure

The scorching summer sun is searing outside, a gentle breeze is keeping everything delightfully bearable as the current heat wave continues to please. Inside the blinds are down and the room is cool and still, I sit, sipping a cool mineral water and enjoy, on television, the penultimate day of “Le Tour 2013”.

The 2013 Tour de France is the 100th. It started in Corsica, whilst I was returning from my Goldfinger trip and was the first ever time that Le Tour has visited the island.

In it’s usual way the race has looped around France, taking in the classic scenery of the Pyrenees , Normandy and the Alps, all jolly good for the French tourism industry. This year’s Tour is to be the first to be completed on only French soil since 2003.The last week has featured a final set of Alpine stages that can only be described as brutal. They are tough enough on a motorbike, let alone on a pedal cycle! It included a double ascent of L’Alpe-d’Huez, the first time the tour has featured a double climb of this difficulty.

The Tour will finish tomorrow evening on the Champs Élysées in Paris and here’s hoping that Britain’s Chris Froome will still be wearing the famous Maillot Jaune!Richie-Porte-and-Chris-Froome-659x440

As the sun warms the Cornish countryside, inside I am transported back to France and the cool sparkling rivers of the Drôme, the windswept dunes of Normandy and the high peaks of Savoie. This TV coverage is terrific, I recall as a youth with my cycling mad friends, desperately trying to get current information about Le Tour. Those were the days of our heroes, Merckx, Thévenet and Hinault, when in the UK the only reports were found tucked away in the sports section of the Daily Telegraph. In those days we dreamed of “ten speed racers”, “Campag” gears and double butted frames…how things have changed.

Then we were blissfully unaware of the problems of doping, even though Tommy Simpson had died on the slopes of Mount Ventoux with a pocketful of amphetamines in 1967. Then came the Nineties and the “Tour of Shame” in 1998 when Voet was arrested with a veritable pharmacy of illegal substances…followed on by the Armstrong years, enough said! Now, things are supposed to be better; Wiggins won last year and Froome leads today, both claim to race clean and most people believe them, I do anyway, but only this week two top track athletes were revealed as testing positive…

So excuse me whilst I indulge myself for a few hours as the Peloton heads towards todays finish at Annecy-Semnoz. Froome leads by 5mins 11seconds, will it be enough? We’ll know by this evening!

Dookes

Goldfinger: The Start

OK, so James Bond 007 is a secret agent, but this mission isn’t, so it’s time to share the first part of the route briefing, pay attention all you ’00’ agents.

The film is initially true to Ian Fleming’s book, with Bond following super-villain Auric Goldfinger across France to Switzerland. Both Bond and Goldfinger’s cars are transported to France via air ferry from Kent, but as these days the air-link is long gone and as I live in Cornwall, we are going to have to bend the rules a bit, anyway I end up driving more miles than Bond as a result! So first up, it’s the ferry from Plymouth to Roscoff in Brittany.

Bond, in his Aston Martin DB4, follows Goldfinger across northern France to an overnight stop in Orléans;Bond Aston

“Bond had never cared for Orléans. I was a priest and myth ridden town without charm or gaiety.” Good enough advice! Harley and I will stay in my regular billet near Chinon and pick up the trail near Nevers.

From there the antagonists head south on the N7, before picking up the N79 to Macon. In the book, it is here that Bond runs into Tilly Masterson, literally! In the film we will see it is a fair bit different.gf_goldfinger_fleming_map_france_02-01a_900

Bond traversed Bourg en Bresse and passed through Pont-d’Ain then picked up the N84, which is now the D1084; we will cut the corner on the D979 and link into the old ’84 near Nantua. I’m going to take a check then how I feel about things. In the  book, Bond goes into Geneva and finds Goldfinger’s lair at Coppet on Lake Geneva; the film is different…so ride along and find out!

Catch you down the road…

Under your feet the grass is growin’!

Dookes